Typically you would add 2" in width and height, but you should have the actual frame on hand, or specs for it, to be sure.
A typical 36 X 80 door would be roughed at 38 X 82
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I'm planning to use some doors for my remodel project that are not pre-hung. (They were in my storage space and match the rest of the doors in the house). What would be the proper size rough opening for the framing? I assume I need enough space for the door jambs and some room for shimming. What would be the standard door jamb thickness? How much room do I need for shimming?
Thanks
Typically you would add 2" in width and height, but you should have the actual frame on hand, or specs for it, to be sure.
A typical 36 X 80 door would be roughed at 38 X 82
Usually 3/4", and with the inch Jimbo mentioned allowed for them.
The 1" allowance all-around should be more than enough unless the "rough framing" is a bit too "rough" and way-out-of-square.
Use tapered shims in pairs with one coming in from each side so the net result is flat unless the lumber around your opening is twisted. Also, be sure to shim directly behind the hinges, if necessary, and to screw at least the top hinge all the way into the framing to keep the door edges plumb/parallel with the jamb.
Jimbo is correct. 36 inch door gets a 38" RO.
35 3/4" door
+ 3/4" jamb
+ 3/4" jamb
+3/16" gap on strike and hinge side.
=37 5/8"
the 38" RO gives you 3/8" of play.
where do you get 1"?
Oh, maybe it is something as simple as "all-around" being mistaken for "overall", eh?!
Overall, we are talking about allowing an inch all-around ... yet I did recently frame a wall and install a 4'x6' window in my new workshop with only 1/4" clearance overall!
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while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...
it smells like......victory......
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Ah, okay. I did not speak clearly while meaning to say 1" all-around the actual size of the door should leave enough room for jamb, shims and squaring, overall.
No, openings for windows are figured differently, but yes, 3/8" could have been okay.
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