Can't get satin or eggshell oil paint in CA

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bobbobwhite

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So, how can I do a nice repaint job on my front door? Water base paint is not good for front doors as it doesn't level nicely and shows brush marks badly. Only oil base paint works right.

Someone know a good/great solution.....like how to cut the sheen on semi-gloss down to eggshell or satin with ??? so I can use it instead? Or, where I can get satin or eggshell oil base paint in custom colors?(best solution).

Thanks.
 

Bosun

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No latex?

A lot of money has gone into developing the newer latex paints. Are you sure nothing can work? Oil is used less and less these days...
 

Mike50

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So, how can I do a nice repaint job on my front door? Water base paint is not good for front doors as it doesn't level nicely and shows brush marks badly. Only oil base paint works right.

Someone know a good/great solution.....like how to cut the sheen on semi-gloss down to eggshell or satin with ??? so I can use it instead? Or, where I can get satin or eggshell oil base paint in custom colors?(best solution).

Thanks.

You don't need the oil base.
Just buy a premium quality latex exterior paint (I use Benjamin Moore) Also Buy a bottle of Floetrol and add as directed. Prime as needed.

Mike
 
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Jimbo

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The reality is that oil based coatings are very limited in availability to consumers, and when you do find something other than an industrial product, which you won't find in the places you can shop, it will have been so modified that it is an inferior product to the acrylic products available.

I recommend getting top of the line of whatever brand you choose, insiste on a 100% acrylic product. Then, this is just a personal opinion, I would rethink eggshell or satin on a door, espcially an exterior door. A semi-gloss will perform much better.
 

Dgold

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My entire house is painted with Benjamin Moore. They don't sell it in the home centers, mostly through the smaller distributors who cater to pro painters. It's expensive, but I've been very happy with it.

Also, for what it's worth, I just took another look at my door casing painted in Ben Moore, Navajo white, Semi-Gloss. No visible brush marks. (I use a very good painter though, so not sure how much is the paint vs. skill.)
 

Jimbo

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(I use a very good painter though, so not sure how much is the paint vs. skill.)

A lot is in the skill, and a LOT is in the quality of the brush. Don't even think about painting trim with a brush that costs less than $18 ! Invest in a few good brushes, and you will learn to love them more than your children! I have a 2½ Frazee angle sash that I can cut in a window with, a line that makes you cry, it is so good. And I am a mediocre painter at best, but that brush brings out the Rembrandt in me!


All that said, the one knock on latex vs. oil is the leveling and brush mark issue. I don't know all the brands that well. If you research on Consumer Reports, they include leveling performance in the evaluations they do on paint, so you could look for the one with the best rating.

Generally, if you choose a top quality 100% acrylic, it will perform well for you. I can not guarantee that it is 100% AS smooth as oil, but it is good. I don't find the brush mark issue to be a problem with flatter finishes as much as the gloss. I think you can do just fine with semi. If you go to high gloss finish, nothing quite beats the oil.
 

Mike50

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BM paints...

You can't go wrong with BM paints. If you have moderate skills and good brushes as Jimbo said--you Can get a professional result imo.

If price is no object you can try their new uber premium Aura line @ $55.00.
I was going to try it out of curiousity for a small bathroom-but it's not available near my home.

http://www.myaurapaint.com/

Mike
 

Bosun

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Aura is good!

I just painted my basement with Aura. It is a very-low VOC paint. Which is fine and all, but the best feature is the color-fast traits--it doesn't fade when you need to scrub something off. Also, no fade over time. That is huge.
 

Bosun

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Aura

When you paint with Aura, you need to move a little differently. Make sure you do all of your cut-in first. Then do the roller. The paint dries VERY quickly. If you try going over a section that is 15 minutes old, you will pick up the drying paint on your wet roller/brush. Sometimes it just makes your finish look goofy. Either way, if you see a spot you missed, wait for 30 minutes to go back over it...
 

bobbobwhite

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I was original poster on this topic

I finally found a Sherwin-Williams satin oil base that worked real well. All of you who state that water base is just fine must be more easily pleased with your paint jobs than I(I restore antiques so am real picky), and no water base paint, including the very expensive BMoore and Pratt&Lambert designer stuff, levels nearly as well as good oil(even oil doesn't level as well as in the past due to ingredients no longer allowed in CA). Oil paint is going out in CA within 5 years by law, I am told by paint stores, so someday we all will have to accept latex for everything.

All of you are right about top quality brushes. Get the very best you can buy, and specific for the job at hand. Paint is an odd craft .....labor is by far the highest cost of pro paint projects.....so make sure all the materials you choose are top quality. That being said..... preparation is still the most important part of a good paint job every time. Thanks for your input, all.
 
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