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Thread: Grounding a portable generator

  1. #76
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cubey View Post
    If I can gain access to the panel or whereever the terminal bar is located I can do it no problem I'm sure.
    I must disagree with you about this statement based on this statement.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cubey View Post
    If that is how this generator is, then a dummy plug would be just the same as using a jumper wire, don't you agree?
    You most certainly do not understand the bonding of the neutral point of the generator.

  2. #77
    DIY Member Cubey's Avatar
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    I managed to get the panel removed from the generator without removing the engine. It'll be tricky to get it back on but I'll worry about that when the time comes.

    Here is a high res photo of it pointing out a few details about it:
    http://ben.illiop.com/temp/coleman_panel.jpg

    Do you not agree that all I must do now is bond neutral to ground within this panel on one of the outlets (as pointed out in the photo) to make it bonded properly?

    That is how low end generators (ie: Briggs & Stratton) come from the factory when they are built bonded. A simple piece of 12 gauge wire between the ground and neutral terminals on the 120v/15A duplex will provide the necessary bonding.

    Take note of how they made neutral 12 gauge all the way to 120V/15A where as hot on 120V/15A is only 14 gauge. Looks like they wired it up so you could bond neutral/ground with a piece of wire and it would have the proper neutral gauge wire to handle it.
    Last edited by Cubey; 12-22-2007 at 10:39 AM.

  3. #78
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    no .

  4. #79
    DIY Member Cubey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwelectric View Post
    no .
    What the? Now you are going against how generators are made at the factory as far as bonding??

  5. #80
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    The bonding donít take place at the receptacle it takes place as out lined in red

    Most generators that I have worked on has a place in the back of the generator to do the bonding.
    Should you do the bonding at the wrong place you will kill the PC board in the control panel.
    Seek help from your Coleman dealership.

  6. #81
    DIY Member Cubey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwelectric View Post
    The bonding donít take place at the receptacle it takes place as out lined in red

    Most generators that I have worked on has a place in the back of the generator to do the bonding.
    Should you do the bonding at the wrong place you will kill the PC board in the control panel.
    Seek help from your Coleman dealership.
    Wow, you FINALLY answered my question of WHERE the bonding should occur!! AFTER I take my generator apart. I asked you TWICE *where* it would be and you would not answer my question.

    And I already TOLD YOU no one in this piece of crap town will touch a portable generator. I would probably have to drive 2 hours (each way) to MAYBE find someone who would.

  7. #82
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cubey View Post
    And I already TOLD YOU no one in this piece of crap town will touch a portable generator. I would probably have to drive 2 hours (each way) to MAYBE find someone who would.
    And just what is the drive worth to you, the price of a generator, the price of someone getting hurt or even killed?

    I don't know the style of generator you have and the bonding will take place at a point on the system that the system was designed to be bonded. To try to bond it where you want to may end up costing you a generator so as I have pointed out so many times before, SEEK HELP FROM A COLEMAN DEALERSHIP!!

  8. #83
    DIY Member Cubey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwelectric View Post
    And just what is the drive worth to you, the price of a generator, the price of someone getting hurt or even killed?

    I don't know the style of generator you have and the bonding will take place at a point on the system that the system was designed to be bonded. To try to bond it where you want to may end up costing you a generator so as I have pointed out so many times before, SEEK HELP FROM A COLEMAN DEALERSHIP!!
    Thank you for that bit of advice. It somehow never occurred to me to look for a Coleman Powermate recommended shop. I went back to the Powermate site and found a "Service Centers" locater. Turns out there is one locally and the Powermate site says they work on generators, however the shop appears to be closed today (no answer). I will have to probably call back next Wednesday since they will probably be closed until then due to holidays.

    Hopefully it won't cost anymore than $50 to have this done (may have them also inspect/replace the brushes while they're at it) if the place does in fact work on generators like the site says. It would be something if they don't. I will be very upset if they don't. The next nearest is approximately 60 miles but thats still better than 130 miles/2 hours.

    Oh, and reassembling the generator wasn't hard after all. There is just a trick to getting the big metal panel back on due to the hard to get at lock nuts.

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