Only way is to install plinth blocks at the bottom of door casings.
You owe Me $.50![]()
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I will install new baseboards in a bathroom remodel project. The plan is to use a built-up design including painted S4S pine as the base, with a base cap on top of the S4S.
Question: My door casing is about 9/16" thick. Am I making a trim carpentry faux pas by using the heavy S4S base? I may have to bevel or chamfer the raw end of the base where it meets the door casing, to give a finished look. Anyone seea problem with this plan? Thanks for any comments.
Only way is to install plinth blocks at the bottom of door casings.
You owe Me $.50![]()
I, like to use a different method when cutting baseboard. I'm not sure what it's call, but it's real simple once you figure it out. Put a long piece of baseboard on the right side of the blade and make a right 45 off the left end of the board then take another piece of baseboard, place it on the left side of the blade and make a left 45 off the right end of the board. Then make a 90 across the short end of the miter so you'll end up with just a little piece of baseboard that should fit in the piece that you just installed. This makes it look like the baseboard rounds the corner and gives a real nice finished look. If this is as clear as mud, maybe someone else could explain it a little better or just ask around. This is truly the best way.
It's called a return.
If you go to JLC Online forum, look at the picture galleries:
http://forums.jlconline.com/photos/index.php?cat=7
there's a lot of close-ups of trim work.
If you do a search in the forums, you'll find more explanations, and probably some pics...
Warning: do not post there, it's not a DIY-friendly forum. Their policy is "pro only", and they mean it. It's enforced by rudeness, flaming, sarcasm, and general nastiness...
Master Plumber Mark:
there is nothing better than the
manly smell of WD 40 in the air
while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...
it smells like......victory......
do not hit your thumb...
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