The dryer breaker is 2" wide and I discovered that HD has a 30 amp 2 pole breaker but half the width or @ 1".and a 50 amp 2 pole cbrkr 1" wide as well. I was thinking of taking out the double wide dryer cb and replacing it with the two mentioned above.I'd unhook the dryer and put a 2 pole 50 for the spa and deal with the dryer issue when you sell the house.
Will this work for what I am trying to do?
If I try and sell the house it would be ideal to have both features operating if at all possible.
This would not work in your GE panel, but you can make it work.
GE panels are weird in that when using skinny breakers the "phasing" is a bit off.
You CANNOT put a two pole 1" breaker in the top spot. The top spot is the same "phase" for the top two 1/2" spaces.
Let me see if I can draw it out..
The uppermost two pole breaker would have to go in space "3a/5b" or "4a/6b"
1a or 2a would have to begin with a 1/2" single pole breaker.
All it would take is some shifting around of some breakers, but you can do it.
GE MIGHT make a quad breaker (2/30...2/50) which would allow two, 2 pole breakers in the space taken up now by your dryer. That's the easiest way.
If not, you will need the narrow 50 PLUS a narrow 30.
Turn OFF the main breaker and use a meter to insure the power is off. Then you can pull out the existing dryer and four of the single pole breakers under it.
Install the new 2 pole breakers, one in the center of the existing dryer space (leaving a space above and below it) and one in the center of the four breakers below it (leaving a space above and below it), then put the existing single poles back in the empty spaces.
Crap....I coulda done it TWICE by now
Thanks Petey and Alectrician
I value all your advice and I will follow the given instructions.
Aaand I am sure I will have another question on this very topic as soon as I go to the next step (i.e. sub panel)
For ex. which sub panel will be adequate for this job ?
I found this inexpensive Rainproof 2-4 circuit nonmetallic(plastic) 125amp box for $18. Any advice on this?
I can only assume this would work.
The tub did not come with one? Usually they come with the panel with the GFI breakers already installed.
I was asked a question via PM from another member. With permission I'm re-posting it here:
The answer is simply it is a code restriction.Why can't you use more than 6' of the liquidtite? I got about 12' to go from the GFCI to the tub and was planning on using flex all the way (4x #6, ground included).
NEC reference 680.42(A)(1)
BTW Nailbender., with that box you got there one thing you have to watch out is the room to bend the wire[s] with #6's it might get pretty tight in few spots.
If i know what that box brand name i can able tell ya the fastest and safest route to land the wires.
and if you going to run the GFCI on the plastic box make sure you bring out netural wire but ground wire have to be insluated green wire [ once it get outside of building ].
Thxs Alectrician & Frenchelectrician
Hey French, here is a link to the box I'm looking at ,. tell me what you think.
The only thing the pic does not show is the front cover(or lid)
It covers the whole front and the access door is just small enough to access the actual cbrkrs alone.
Last edited by nail bender; 11-03-2007 at 11:31 AM. Reason: left something out
You can't run the NM wires outside in conduit of any kind. You will have to use THWN or some other kind of wire that is rated for wet locations. You will usually find that wire rated for THHN also rated as THWN.
The wire you need is #6 for the hot conductors (#8 will actually handle 50 Amps), and #8 for the white and ground. Those will fit in a 3/4" rigid or flex conduit. You may need the 1" if they are all #6.
The load calculations would let you run smaller wires (THWN) but the inspector on a recent project that I did required the larger wires.
Rigid PVC is easy to run and it is easy to pull if you use lubricant. You can connect flex to the end using a adapters and pull the wire through both at once.