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Thread: Moving a tub drain

  1. #1
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    Default Moving a tub drain

    I need to move my existing tub drain to the other side of the alcove to accommodate my new tub...long story.
    Drain is 1.5" ABS, need to run 6', thru about 4 joists (2x10). Not the least bit interested in notching the joists...

    How do I tie this into the existing? (45*, 90* ??). I am assuming I need to remove existing trap and relocate with new drain as double traps are a no-no...

    Need suggestions for spanning thru the joists...
    Is 1.5" hole saw good, or should I go bigger for wiggle room?
    I'm not sure the 6' run will flex enough to get thru all the joists in 1 piece...should I cut & glue in some couplers? Is this good practice?

    Slope-- do I need to slope this new section?

    Vent -- PLEASE say I don't need to mess with the venting!!!

    Glue -- is there an ABS primer??? Should I use it? I've seen ABS cleaner, should I use that??? I already got the word on making sure I use ABS GLUE!!! <-- another long story!

    Thanks All!
    Last edited by Waltman; 10-29-2007 at 07:35 AM.
    Thanks,
    Walt

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    I think the max distance between a tub trap and the vent is 5', but double-check that. If so, then yes, you do need to consider venting as an issue. It would be far easier to build a chase in the ceiling downstairs to hold the pipe - you will not get a single piece through those joists, and depending on what you have, you may not be able to do it at all. That section DOES need to be sloped at 1/4" per foot back to where it ties into the drain system, and with the additional length, may not work without other changes.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
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    The chase option is out of the question as this bathroom sits atop the dining room. A soffit in this location would be unsightly.

    The 1.5" slope difference is going to be an issue as the existing drain exits thru the joist appx. 1.5" from the top already.... ACK!!!

    What "other" changes do I need to look at to make this work out??? I'm thinking I could build up the floor, this also creates the illusion that the tub is deeper. But other than that, I'm not sure if there's anything I can do to without major surgery...which I aint gonna do...I'll send the tub back first!!

    Can/should I section & glue the new drain using ABS couplers or is this unacceptable?

    Venting is not a show-stopper, but I'd prefer NOT messing with it as my best solution would look like a train wreck
    Last edited by Waltman; 10-29-2007 at 11:58 AM.
    Thanks,
    Walt

  4. #4
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    AHA!!!

    Another option I MAY have is to tie into the existing 2" shower drain. This drain is less than 4' from where the new tub drain needs to be.

    Now...is this a no-no???

    Is there such a thing as a 2" TO 1.5" ABS tee. This would be with the 2" running strainght thru, with the 1.5 branching off at the 90*....

    If this is doable and allowable, this could be the answer I need....

    *** UPDATE *** this may not be so doable because the only tie-in I would be able to get would be on the horizontal. I DONT have access to the vertical stack. I suspect a horizontal tie-in is not allowed. If it is, please tell me how to tie a 1.5" tub drain into a 2" shower drain on the horizontal, it wouldn't be a straight run. I would need to get around existing shower p-trap.

    ANYONE????
    Last edited by Waltman; 10-29-2007 at 03:59 PM.
    Thanks,
    Walt

  5. #5
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The tub would still need to be vented prior to connecting it to the shower drain. Wait for the pros on how to do this.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  6. #6
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    How big are your joists? You may have no choice but to mount the tub raised.

    Your holes have to be maximum 1/4 of the joist size, and have to be at least 2" away from the top or the bottom of the joist.

    If you need to run the hole closer than 2 inches from the top or bottom... presto, it's a notch. And a notch has to be smaller than 1/6 the joist.


    I don't know so much about the plumbing - but I do know that codes on venting vary a lot. Ask the local building department.
    Master Plumber Mark:

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  7. #7
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    Here's a pic of the job. Now, we're all on the same page

    The tub will need to be 'flipped' so that drain is on left hand side. This needs to be done in order to meet mfr spec for service access to pump & plumbing.

    THANKS AGAIN ALL!!!
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    Thanks,
    Walt

  8. #8
    Plumber patrick88's Avatar
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    Glue -- is there an ABS primer??? Should I use it? I've seen ABS cleaner, should I use that??? I already got the word on making sure I use ABS GLUE!!! <-- another long story!
    Just glue

    Is there such a thing as a 2" TO 1.5" ABS tee. This would be with the 2" running strainght thru, with the 1.5 branching off at the 90*....
    You would need to use a tee wye or wye. They do make them.

    *** UPDATE *** this may not be so doable because the only tie-in I would be able to get would be on the horizontal. I DONT have access to the vertical stack. I suspect a horizontal tie-in is not allowed. If it is, please tell me how to tie a 1.5" tub drain into a 2" shower drain on the horizontal, it wouldn't be a straight run. I would need to get around existing shower p-trap.
    Yup you can do it. See above. The tee can't be on its side flat must be turned just a little.

    I don't know NJ. venting rules but I'm sure somebody will know if you can hold out for a while.
    I'm just starting to work with an old friend of mine to bring solar electric and hot water systems, wind turbines, Flex Fuel Boilers, batteries, hydroponic gardening, books, pellet grills and more. Also the parts for DIY installation.

  9. #9
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    Patrick,

    Thanks!!! I'm having trouble visualizing. Please help me a bit more. Also, I would be using a SANITARY TEE, not a VENT TEE...correct???

    Even if the shower drain I'm tying into is 4' away, I may still need to vent?

    Slope of 1/4 is assumed too, correct?
    Thanks,
    Walt

  10. #10
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    It's not a sanitary T or a vent T, it's a whye - the arm is at 45 degrees - you put another 45 on that, to get 90. The idea is to avoid a sharp turn, which would slow down the water flow.

    There's also such a thing as a long sweep T, which accomplishes the same thing.



    (Where are the plumbers, these days? I keep expecting Grumpy or Mark or Kordst or Terry...)



    The carpenter (me) is still waiting to hear how big the joists are...
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Master Plumber Mark:

    there is nothing better than the
    manly smell of WD 40 in the air
    while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...

    it smells like......victory......

    do not hit your thumb...
    __________________
    Just so everyone's clear: I'm the POODLE in the picture ("french", get it?) The hot woman is my wife.

  11. #11
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    Joists are 2x10 dimensional lumber...no engineered joists.

    If need be, I'll raise the tub 1.5" by placing 2x4 or 2x6 dimensional on their sides as sleepers.

    And it's totally cool to use the wye, or long sweep wye to tie into an existing drain on the HORIZONTAL run??? I assume the wye needs to face downline so as not to shoot the drainage toward the existing drain...

    Yes, I assume A LOT!!! That's why (not wye) I'm here!!!
    Last edited by Waltman; 10-30-2007 at 02:35 PM.
    Thanks,
    Walt

  12. #12
    Commercial Plumber markts30's Avatar
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    Enlarge the pic so we can see it (or at least I can - seems like I am going blind...*sigh*) and then draw in what you have already in place as far as piping and some dinensions...
    From that we can give you some valid answers...
    Without that our answers are all "maybe you can do this" and "maybe you can do that"...

  13. #13
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    A 2x10 is actually 9-5/8", call it 9-1/2"...

    So the biggest code-compliant hole that you can make in it is 2-1/8"; so you're fine doing 1-1/2".

    Staying at least 2" away from the top or bottom of the joist, there's 6 inches you can put it into: plenty of room for the 1/4 per foot drop.

    You're set.

    Now you just need to work out the venting question.
    Master Plumber Mark:

    there is nothing better than the
    manly smell of WD 40 in the air
    while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...

    it smells like......victory......

    do not hit your thumb...
    __________________
    Just so everyone's clear: I'm the POODLE in the picture ("french", get it?) The hot woman is my wife.

  14. #14
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    New, hopefully larger image for those vision impaired DIDN'T WORK!!

    Frenchie - My existing tub drain is already <2" from the underside of the subfloor :-(
    To extend another 6' I'll still need to bump it up another 1.5" hence the need to still build up the floor....

    Now, to connect to the shower drain, I don't think I have enough room to put the wye on an angle. Won't know for sure until I pull the floor up...still have fingers crossed that this will work...

    Mark, sorry I am having problems resizing my image...more detail coming, please gimme a few.

    I oughta just pull the permit and pick the inspector's brain on this....
    Last edited by Waltman; 10-31-2007 at 08:38 AM.
    Thanks,
    Walt

  15. #15
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    Default with PICTURES

    Let's try this
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    Thanks,
    Walt

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