Pipe problem?

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dmax56

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...so one thing I forgot when I soldered up my new bath piping was to make sure that the fitting for my sink was flat against the wall first.

As a result, I needed to push it down to fit flush. I don't think it'll ever pull out, but am wondering if as a preventive measure, I should maybe heat up the pipe to get it to 'fit' better without pressure on it?

To explain better, a 2' section of 1/2" coming from a T from a 3/4" line was maybe 2" away from wall after soldering joint on other side of a wall. I could push it in, and attach to cinderblock with tapcon screws through the brass elbow (where the male nipple will screw into). Won't guess what force I used, but it's on the wall snug and the 1/2" didn't get kinked at all...but will this overly stress the "T"? I'm thinking to heat it up to get it to 'anneal' (not sure right term) into the position it's in?

Thanks folks!

Doug in NJ
 

hj

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tee

If you heat it enough to anneal it, (assuming there is no water in it and you can actually get it that hot), you will destroy the solder joints and damage the tee. If there is no water in it, then just heat the two ends of the tee until it "snaps" into position, then resolder the two ends.
 

dmax56

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The rough plumbing will be behind the wall...the supplys are going to be exposed and done with all brushed nickel fittings.

Thanks hj for your 'popping it into place idea. So in resoldering...more flux after it pops and before the solder...or flux before heating too to minimize oxidation.

After all this though, do I really need to do this if it's firmly attached to wall?

Also, found green stuff on other pipes done by someone other than me years ago...revealed in wall removal. I've read it's flux and can corrode joints...true you think...and vinegar or mineral spirits okay to remove with? Do I then need to rinse off vinegar with water or am I being too obsessive?

Thanks again!
 

dmax56

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Last question HJ on resoldering

HJ,

First, thanks for you help so far...amazing!

I found another joint easier to get to to fix the 'torque' on my pipe. If it pops back into place, can I reflux just on the outside? Everything is strapped tight and I'd rather not redo everything if I can resolder without removing joints.

Flux during, after? Both?

D
 

Patrick88

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Flux during, after? Both?
Both.

Also, found green stuff on other pipes done by someone other than me years ago...revealed in wall removal. I've read it's flux and can corrode joints...true you think...and vinegar or mineral spirits okay to remove with? Do I then need to rinse off vinegar with water or am I being too obsessive?
So it might take the green off the pipes. The flux tends to be in the pipes. I have found a lot of plumbers use a lot of flux so it get sucked into the pipes. I would cut right on that spot and insert a slip coupling to fix. This would help me sleep.
 

dmax56

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Got it, both. Thanks for the reply. After hearing all this stuff about cutting out the fitting, not resoldering old joints, and the like, I was glad to hear that one can resolder without removing all the locked in pipes...necessating quite a few steps backward!

Anyway, did it and will await the great water test...sometime shortly down the road...if I can find a plumber to help me put in the tub...not only do I need the muscle...need someone that knows more than me!

Any contacts for a plumber in North central new jersey (we're not all that bad)...greatly appreciated.

Thanks again folks. Great forum!

D
 
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