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Thread: Shower/Comode Plumbing Plan?

  1. #1

    Default Shower/Comode Plumbing Plan?

    Does the attached plan seem like a good one. The Vent to wall will branch off at a 90 degree angle, straight over to the wall about 15 inches, then go up and threw the roof. Actual distance of P-Trap to vent is about 48 inches. I could easily put it before the toilet if need be. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Hopefully my attachment is readable, this is my first attempt to upload on this forum.
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  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default vent

    Assuming an inspector would okay the general layout, then the vent has to be between the shower and the toilet.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member looknohands's Avatar
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    Default

    Hi,

    What software did you use to draw up that plumbing plan? I would love to draw up mine like that and post it here for comments.

    I am working on building a bathroom on the ground floor, on top of a concrete floor, where I want to run about 9 feet of 3" pipe for the toilet drain, in which I want to feed a 2" vent coming from the mainstack. On the 2" vent I want to connect a sink as well.

    As far as I can tell from all the various books I have, this should all be in accordance with the strictest code.

    Thanks,

    - Erik

  4. #4
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default bath

    The concept is in accordance with most codes, but there are many ways to acrually install the piping, and not all of those ways will pass an inspection.

  5. #5

    Default Revised Plan

    Is this an improvement on my original plan?
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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Default

    In the top drawing I see the vent for the toilet.
    The vent should be a wye fitting, not a sanitary tee.

    Why did you roll the trap arm up for the shower, making it an ilegal "S" trap?

    Before the vent for the toilet using wye fittings, you could have a wye taken off for the shower, then a wye fitting for the shower vent.
    The trap arm needs 2% grade on it, you can't just raise it up with fittings and expect it to work.

    Both the toilet vent and the shower vent can be tied back together at six inches above the flood level of the toilet.

    All of those fittings below that point should be waste fittings, that would by wyes, 45's, ect.
    Last edited by Terry; 03-14-2005 at 12:06 PM.

  7. #7

    Default Revision to Revision

    Another crack at this layout. What about this one? Any suggestions?
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  8. #8

    Default Comments on Latest diagram

    Can't see an obvious violation, but if you have enough underfloor room, why don't you shorten the shower tailpiece and bring a 2" (rather than 3') shower trap arm over from the trap into a 2" vertical san tee, and connect the tee downward into the main drain ahead of the toilet with a 2" sweep el, finally connecting to the toilet with a 2 x 3 x 3 combo? This would keep the shower trap arm above the level of the toilet waste (by the combined height of the el and the lower half of the san tee).

  9. #9

    Default Clarification - vent

    To clarify my previous post, the vent would connect upward from the top of the san tee

  10. #10

    Default Latest Revison

    I have taken inputs, visited Lowes to play with the fittings and have come up with this revised plan. Should I run a 4" drain right from the comode, or is the 3" okay? Shortly downstream I will have a branch enter this drain from a Tub and a set of double sinks. I had planned on opening up to a 4" drain at that point. This all comes from one master bath, so more than likely only one fixture will be draining at a time.
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  11. #11
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I still think that you should have a wye fitting first, the 2" would pass the toilet and head for the shower where you would plumb it like your last drawing.

    After the wye and before you got to the toilet, you would have a 2" vent with a wye fitting and 45.
    The toilet would be the last fixture on that line.
    In otherwords, you would have a fork, one side of the fork would go the the shower with it's own vent, and the other side of the fork would go the the toilet with it's own vent.

    Both of those vents could be combined at say, just to be safe, 42" from the floor.

  12. #12

    Default Separate branches

    You're right Terry- makes much better sense - guess that's why you get the big bucks and I sit here wondering if the wonder bread will hold off the water until I can get the tie in joint soldered. I am currently adding a shower, tieing it in to what was a lav drain (luckily the 1 1/2" galvie in the wall tied into a 2" cast iron combo under the floor). My set up is just as you describe -except I also have a bathtub. The tub, shower and WC all are on separate drain branches which tie into the main 4" drain line. The WC is last in line, and has it's own 4" vent straight to the roof. The shower and tub share a 1 1/2" vent.

    PS: can you give me any tips on setting my 365 lb. Terrazzo Shower receptor into the required grout base (the physical manipulation to get into position, hold it above the floor while I spread the grout, and then lower it evenly enough so as not to squeeze out the grout on one side or the other).

    Thanks

  13. #13

    Default Cornfused?

    <Terry Said: I still think that you should have a wye fitting first, the 2" would <pass the toilet


    Terry, when you say a Wye first, do you mean on the extreme right side of the drawing? Starting from the extreme right, have a 3X3X2 WYE, with the branch bypassing the comode and going straight to the P-trap on the Shower? The input from the first wye on the right would go over to the comode drop? Both fixtures will have their own vents, joining in the as they are in different walls.

  14. #14

    Smile Another Attempt to appease the Plumber Gods

    I hope this one does the trick, cause my wife says get off the dang computor.http://terrylove.com/forums/images/icons/icon7.gif
    Smile
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  15. #15
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default piping

    You are making it more and more complicated. If the tub and sinks are going to be nearby, then install a 3" combo on its back at the sink location. In the riser insert a 3x3x3x2 side inlet tee, (left or right inlet depending on which will orient better for the next step). Angle the 3" side inlet towards the toilet and run a pipe to the toilet location. Use fittings to direct the 2" inlet to the tub's "P" trap location and install a pipe, (up to 48" or 60" depending on your code) with the P trap on the end. Continue up with 3" cleanout and a 3x2 bushing in it. Then install the 2x2x1 1/2x1 1/2 double fixture fitting for the two sinks. Insert a 3x2 bushing in the end of the horizontal 3" combo and run a 2" pipe to the shower. Then either continue to the "P" trap with a combo, (and possibly a cleanout in the vertical pipe), for a vent, or use a long sweep 1/4 bend with a tee above it which can be rotated to line up with the shower opening and then continue the vent, again with a cleanout, up through the roor or to the other vent. This all depends on the distances involved, but some variation of this will fit your installation. For example, you can install the side inlet tee at the shower and angle to the toilet from there with the shower "P" trap connecting to the 2" side inlet.
    Last edited by hj; 03-16-2005 at 06:09 AM. Reason: text

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