To Replace shower valve or NOT to replace shower valve

[ejhdmbfan]

To all those whom I've received previous help from in this forum....THANK YOU. This site is fantastic...I appreciate everyone taking the time to help.

Anyway, I have a pull/push shower valve in my 1964 built home. I believe it's original, but it's hard to tell. The old valve works well, but I belive it is outdated by design. There was only 1 design choice I could pick out at HD and it's crappy looking. There are so many new styles with great finishes, but the valves are not the same...right?!!? Or am I wrong? Can I just switch something out to change it from a pull/push valve to turn style one? Or do I have to replace the whole thing. I can do that, but I obviously want to avoid cutting and soldering! Please let me know. thanks!

I have a photo, but can't paste into this text area. I can email you a photo if you need to see more. thanks.

by the way...i'm down to the studs and no tub so I have plenty of room to work with.

[jadnashua]

Well, conversion from push/pull to turn probably isn't possible without changing the valve. Plus, a valve that old doesn't have the required new safety anti-scald features. So, While you are remodeling, I'd change the valve, get something you like the look of, and get the new safety features. Personally, I like the thermostatic valves, but those cost more than the other approved type (pressure balanced). Keep in mind that with the new valves, typically, only the thermostatic valves have a volume control if that is important to you.

[ejhdmbfan]

jadnashua - thanks for your help. So you're telling me that it will be in my best interest to replace the head? If so, can I keep the old copper there around the valve by reheating the solder? Or do I have to replace all the piping that leads to it? Hopefully it's not the latter.

[markts30]

Typically you will cut the copper lines feeding the valve and re-pipe the new one in it's entirety (new tub spout and shower head...)
Should only take about an hour or so (double that if you have never done one) and a handfull of fittings and maybe 10' of 1/2" pipe (type L is preferable)...
New valve will have to be set to the right depth so make sure you know how thick the wall will be when finished... (drywall/CBU + membrane + thinset + tile +...)