TomBrooklyn
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Are Pittsburgh pipe wrenches any good, such as the 24" aluminum one from Harborfreight? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39606
Pittsburgh Pipe Wrenches Any Good?
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Master Plumber Mark
Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls
Junk....
They are good if you are going to use them only once or twice...
and they look great hanging up in your tool room...
But If you are planning on reliyeing on them every day, they will
eventually drive you crazy fighting with them trying to get a grip on a
pipe and you will throw them a way...
the only ones that are good for-ever are RIGID.
it all depends on wether you are a
weekend warrior or do it for a living
They are good if you are going to use them only once or twice...
and they look great hanging up in your tool room...
But If you are planning on reliyeing on them every day, they will
eventually drive you crazy fighting with them trying to get a grip on a
pipe and you will throw them a way...
the only ones that are good for-ever are RIGID.
it all depends on wether you are a
weekend warrior or do it for a living
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Dunbar Plumbing
Master Plumber
Had mine 7 years
on the back of my truck.....only use it for wrenching off thermostat valves off heaters and removing cleanout caps on drain lines and works fine.
I'm a diehard fan of HB and when I priced the Ridgid one I felt like I was going to have to donate bodily fluids to afford it.
I've used this wrench without problems but would never use a cheater bar/pipe on it; it would break instantly.
They got steel ones up there at HB if you're built like Ahhnawld!
on the back of my truck.....only use it for wrenching off thermostat valves off heaters and removing cleanout caps on drain lines and works fine.
I'm a diehard fan of HB and when I priced the Ridgid one I felt like I was going to have to donate bodily fluids to afford it.
I've used this wrench without problems but would never use a cheater bar/pipe on it; it would break instantly.
They got steel ones up there at HB if you're built like Ahhnawld!
Master Plumber Mark
Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls
Rugged a cheater bar would probably get you killed
I never even thought of the damage one would do
if you put a cheater bar on one.....
I have a couple of rigid wrenches that are literally bent
from trying to force something with a cheater bar....
but with one of those cheap ones you could easily break your jaw,
or a couple of ribs,
or land flat on your face and have it fall
and hit you in the back of the head, when it snapped off
that would almost be funny ..................
I never even thought of the damage one would do
if you put a cheater bar on one.....
I have a couple of rigid wrenches that are literally bent
from trying to force something with a cheater bar....
but with one of those cheap ones you could easily break your jaw,
or a couple of ribs,
or land flat on your face and have it fall
and hit you in the back of the head, when it snapped off
that would almost be funny ..................
Dunbar Plumbing
Master Plumber
I'm real hard on tools....I use them incorrectly sometimes too.
That's why I buy the el cheapo ones sometimes. Now I have two 10" aluminums; one is a Lennox, the other is a Ridgid and they are $30 a piece.
I spent money on those because of the torque I put on them for numerous
applications and didn't trust the HB brand.
Certain products from HB have their place but by no means do I own all
tools from there.
I might use that 24" one maybe once every two weeks. I'm getting to be a big WIMP as I get older and those aluminum handled ones are a great asset to ease of use. So light that it makes a difference in using them.
That's why I buy the el cheapo ones sometimes. Now I have two 10" aluminums; one is a Lennox, the other is a Ridgid and they are $30 a piece.
I spent money on those because of the torque I put on them for numerous
applications and didn't trust the HB brand.
Certain products from HB have their place but by no means do I own all
tools from there.
I might use that 24" one maybe once every two weeks. I'm getting to be a big WIMP as I get older and those aluminum handled ones are a great asset to ease of use. So light that it makes a difference in using them.
GrumpyPlumber
Licensed Grump
I personally use the "MadeinTaiwan" name, not sure where they're from but they're just great.
I'm not serious, pipe wrenches, Ridgid only.
I'm not serious, pipe wrenches, Ridgid only.
TomBrooklyn
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Hi,master plumber mark said:
I'm not a plumber but I am a small real estate owner who tackles some small to medium size jobs on my own so I do want something that will last. I don't go for buying the same tool more than once and I have no tolerance for mediocre tools that aren't able to perform their intended function reliably, so it sounds like Pittsburg is out.
TomBrooklyn
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Hi.GrumpyPlumber said:
Is Ridgid really the only company that makes a solid, good quality pipe wrench?
To give you an idea of what I mean by solid, good quality--that is what I consider Craftsman sockets and wrenches to be. I would call that Tier 2 quality. I would consider Snap-On Tier 1 quality. I want any tool I buy has to be at least Tier 2. It has to at least be able to perform it's intended function without fear of it slipping, bending, or breaking etc. for many years of at least occasional use. =TBk
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CHH
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TomBrooklyn said:
Yup. Don't even look at anything but Rigid in pipe wrenches. You can bend the steel handled ones (by using a "cheater" incorrectly) but they will never break. If you're going with a wimpy aluminum handle then it doesn't matter so much.
TomBrooklyn
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OK. Sounds like Ridgid is the only way to go. I picked up a steel 24" Ridgid on ****. Got it for $29 and the teeth look pretty OK as far I could tell from the picture.CHH said:
Are even the aluminum Ridgids not so good?
I got some 100 year old steam heating pipe risers and takeoffs I want to either remove or relocate. They range from about 1" to one 2 1/2" (I think.) I have a feeling they're not going to come apart easily. I'll probably have to get another pipe wrench as the biggest one I have now besides the 24" is an 18." I figured I'd wait until the 24" got here and see how it felt. I was even wondering if I'd need a 36" for that 2.5" riser.
Should I be staying away from the aluminums altogether?
CHH
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TomBrooklyn said:
Jaws can be easily replaced when they do get worn
TomBrooklyn said:
Aluminum handles will break when side loaded. Steel handles may bend a bit but they won't break. I have seen a steel handle that had the jaw ripped but it was used as a back-up to a hydraulic wrench so I don't count that one.
TomBrooklyn said:
Your call. If you never need to extend your leverage or get 2 or 3 men pulling on the wrench then you can get away with aluminum. If you have awkward angles and high torque, you'll be replacing aluminum regularly. Don't ever hit aluminum with a hammer either.
My opinion is that if it's just one guy and he is careful with his tools then aluminum is ok to have. If you're doing serious refit work then you'll need some steel for the tough connections. If all you're doing is making up new pipe then aluminum will be fine.
If it's a crew then forget aluminum or plan on buying new handles at regular intervals.
CHH
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About forgot your question about pipe size and required wrench size.
We used to use a 24 to make up 2" and a 36 for breakout.
For 2 1/2" we'd get out the hammers and "cheaters." Never put a "cheater" on a 24 when the 36 is handy. If you only have a few 2 1/2" connections you can get away with using the "cheater" on a 24 just be careful when applying the wrench and warm up the joint a bit beforehand when breaking one out.
Watch your fingers and toes around that 36. You probably won't take one off but it will tend to smart for awhile and maybe swell up just a bit.
We used to use a 24 to make up 2" and a 36 for breakout.
For 2 1/2" we'd get out the hammers and "cheaters." Never put a "cheater" on a 24 when the 36 is handy. If you only have a few 2 1/2" connections you can get away with using the "cheater" on a 24 just be careful when applying the wrench and warm up the joint a bit beforehand when breaking one out.
Watch your fingers and toes around that 36. You probably won't take one off but it will tend to smart for awhile and maybe swell up just a bit.
TomBrooklyn
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Hi CHH,
Thanks for the guidelines on wrench sizes. I got only one connection to remove that's 2" or 2.5" so it sounds like I'm on the borderline with the 24". I got oxy-acetylene handy too so I could heat it up real hot. Will have to see how it goes.
Thanks for the guidelines on wrench sizes. I got only one connection to remove that's 2" or 2.5" so it sounds like I'm on the borderline with the 24". I got oxy-acetylene handy too so I could heat it up real hot. Will have to see how it goes.
TomBrooklyn
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Sounds like steel is a lot more versitile. And with steel wrenches I will need to spend that much less time in the gym. I'll stick with steel. Cheers.CHH said:
GrumpyPlumber
Licensed Grump
TomBrooklyn said:
Oh, you'll need that, make sure you heat the fitting instead of the pipe.
The heated fitting will swell.
As for hammering...oooooh dunno if that'd be the best idea if the pipes as old as you say, unless you're prepared to replace what breaks.
TMB9862
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Aluminum pipe wrenches are great, much easier on the arms. I very rarely use a steel one and haven't broken and aluminum one yet. Doesn't ridgid offer a lifetime warranty on their wrenches anyway?
Keep in mind at that age those fittings may be too frozen to move. I've had a couple that you can heat and cheater bar all you want but they just won't move. Be prepared to have to cut the pipe and thread it in place or move down the line until a fitting does break loose if you end up snapping the threads off or something.
Keep in mind at that age those fittings may be too frozen to move. I've had a couple that you can heat and cheater bar all you want but they just won't move. Be prepared to have to cut the pipe and thread it in place or move down the line until a fitting does break loose if you end up snapping the threads off or something.
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Cwhyu2
Consultant
pipe wenches
Rigid is only way to go .Stilltyping one handed
Rigid is only way to go .Stilltyping one handed
CHH
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TMB9862 said:
Back when the aluminum first came out the story we always were told was "no" on the warranty. Of course anyone that knew us wouldn't honor the warranty anyway...there seems to be something about tying a pickup to a 36 that voids the warranty but I don't know what it is...
TomBrooklyn
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I measured the riser and it's 2.25" OD so I guess that's a 2" pipe. I think the main horizontal main is 3". I'm not sure how a plumber would fix that tee if it broke, but I have an arc welder and could weld a piece back in. How would a plumber normally go about replacing a 3x2 tee that broke in the middle of a steam line anyway?GrumpyPlumber said:
TMB9862
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I know the new ones at the supply house all have the little sticker saying the housing is warrantied for life. I suppose if it's obvious you put a pipe (or a truck) on it they wouldn't honor it though.CHH said:Back when the aluminum first came out the story we always were told was "no" on the warranty. Of course anyone that knew us wouldn't honor the warranty anyway...there seems to be something about tying a pickup to a 36 that voids the warranty but I don't know what it is...
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