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Thread: well booster pump

  1. #1

    Question well booster pump

    I have a 1/2 hp Goulds model 7GS05 pump.
    I believe that the pump is underpowered.
    the pump's output at 10 the psi is constant at 8+ gpm.
    At the normal 40 to 60 psi setting the pressure drops rapidly to 40 psi and will only deliver about 3 gpm and the pump runs constantly untill the faucet is closed.

    Rather than replacing the pump, I believe that a booster pump in line to the pressure storage tank would solve my problem.

    My question is, can I install a 8 gpm pump (1/2 hp that has a pressure rating of 30psi in series with my existing well before the pressure control so that it will only will also
    turn on when the well pump turns on?

    Can I use the same pressure control to control both pumps?

    Will the existing pressure control unit be able to operate two motor starters?

    Thank you

    Kendall Road

  2. #2
    Plumber patrick88's Avatar
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    At the normal 40 to 60 psi setting the pressure drops rapidly to 40 psi and will only deliver about 3 gpm and the pump runs constantly untill the faucet is closed.
    how old is the pump? sounds like the pump is worn out. I would not bother throwing money and time (what is your time worth) trying to rig something up knowing the pump is going bad or something else is wrong.

    Did you check your well-troll tank is it water logged?
    I'm just starting to work with an old friend of mine to bring solar electric and hot water systems, wind turbines, Flex Fuel Boilers, batteries, hydroponic gardening, books, pellet grills and more. Also the parts for DIY installation.

  3. #3
    In the Trades Bob NH's Avatar
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    The pump isn't underpowered.

    It might be misapplied, or it might be worn to the point where it is not delivering adequate head (pressure). Or there might be a leak in the pipe in the well.

    Or the water level in the well may have dropped. Do you know how deep the well is; what level the pump is set at; and what level the water is at when it it pumping?

    Has the pump ever delivered adequate flow and pressure?

    It would be possible to put in a booster pump but it would be a bad choice. You could control it with one pressure switch (with a contactor or relay) but it would be a messy setup. Also, you would have to carefully match the booster pump to the flow characteristics of the submersible pump.

    Find out what the water level is in the well (It has been dry in places), and tell us if it has ever worked correctly, and we can tell you if the pump is matched to the requirements. If the pump is matched to the requirements then it is probably worn or you have a leak in the pipe.

  4. #4

    Default well booster pump

    This is a relatively new home (10 years) and was to have a3/4 hp pump installed. The problem became apparent when I receently installed a water neutralizer and softener system (total pressure drop 15 psi).

    I checked the system and found that a 1/2 hp pump was intalled. The builder is long gone. The well tested at 20 gpm at it's maximum 360 ft depth.

    The static water level is 50 ft below the basement level and the drawdown is about 75 to 80 ft. and my bathroom shower is 26 ft above the basement level. This equates to a total head of about 260 ft. (this includes 138 ft head to yield the desired 60 psi). The pump curve shows a 3.6 gpm rate at this head.

    Kendallroad

  5. #5
    Sprinkler Guy Wet_Boots's Avatar
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    You added equipment that dropped the pressure by 15 psi? You have to deal with reduced performance. Got room for an extra pressure tank(s)?

  6. #6

    Default Kendallroad

    Wouldn't the extra pressure tank only increase the time that the well pump does not turn ? When the pump turns on it can only deliver water at its current capacity.

  7. #7
    In the Trades Bob NH's Avatar
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    You could add a booster and have an 8 GPM system. If you go much more than 8 GPM the well pump will not be able to keep up with the booster and you will get cavitation which will destroy the booster pump.

    Or you could put in a 7GS07 and have a system that will deliver 8 GPM at 280 ft of head.

    Or you could put in a 10GS10 and have a system that will deliver 12 GPM at 260 ft of head and 8 GPM at 325 ft of head.

    If I owned a 20 GPM capacity well I would go with the larger pump rather than mess with a booster pump. With the 10 GPM rated pump (capacity about 12 GPM) I would also get a 40 gallon actual size bladder tank.

    A 10GS10 two-wire pump is $684 with shipping from http://www.wwpp.us/goulds/goulds-sub...e-2-wire.shtml

    The 7GS07 is $643 with shipping and you could use a smaller tank.
    Last edited by valveman; 09-17-2007 at 03:04 PM.

  8. #8
    Sprinkler Guy Wet_Boots's Avatar
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    Too bad one can't cut in a temporary water meter, to record the actual usage. Unless you're using more than, say, 2000 gallons a day (experts can refine the numbers) you could just use the existing pump. Add some extra pressure tank(s) to lengthen the time between pump starts, and to provide additional water at higher pressures. Unless I'm using the gallonage, I'd leave things alone. I buy tank(s) before I replace a working pump.

  9. #9

    Thumbs up Re: well booster pump

    Hi, I think you have to buy a new water pump because your pump is very old. So I suggest you http://www.toyopumps.com because recently I purchased a DBH Series Horizontal Pump from Toyo Pumps (www[dot]toyopumps[dot]com/horizontal-dbh[dot]html) at very cool price.Toyo pumps have different types of pumps i.e., booster pumps, horizontal pumps, dewatering pumps, positive displacement pumps and high pressure pumps.

    John

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