(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: How to move cold water supply 2 inches?

  1. #1

    Default How to move cold water supply 2 inches?

    Hi, new to the forum, tried various searches to no avail.

    I'm doing a kitchen reno, which involves moving the sink about 8 inches to the left. nothing to crazy about that, but if I do that the cold water supply pipe will lie 2 inches outside the sink cabinet.

    So the question is, how to get that pipe inside the cabinet? I have no access from the basement since the ceiling is finished. Is it possible to bend/move the pipe in the toekick space under the cabinets to manouver it into the sink cabinet?

    Or is the only solution to open up the floor to re-solder a new cold water supply pipe into the new location of the sink cabinet?

    I've attached a pic of the pipes/cabinet as they are now. And yes I know the drain pipe isn't done properly either...an unexpected bonus in purchasing a 50 year old house from its original owner.

  2. #2
    Plumber patrick88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Webster Ma.
    Posts
    836

    Default

    I've attached a pic of the pipes/cabinet as they are now. And yes I know the drain pipe isn't done properly either...an unexpected bonus in purchasing a 50 year old house from its original owner.
    Reply With Quote
    I don't see your pic that would help alot
    I'm just starting to work with an old friend of mine to bring solar electric and hot water systems, wind turbines, Flex Fuel Boilers, batteries, hydroponic gardening, books, pellet grills and more. Also the parts for DIY installation.

  3. #3

    Default heres the forgotten pic....

    ...sorry about that, its getting pretty late....
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #4
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    200 miles south of Little Rock
    Posts
    2,474

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sleepaholic
    ... moving the sink ... the cold water supply pipe will lie 2 inches outside the sink cabinet ...

    Is it possible to bend/move the pipe in the toekick space under the cabinets to manouver it into the sink cabinet?

    Or is the only solution to open up the floor to re-solder a new cold water supply pipe into the new location of the sink cabinet?
    Adding a couple of elbows (along with a new piece of pipe to get rid of that saddle valve) would take care of the matter, but the line would still be above the floor beside the cabinet unless you open the floor.

    Quote Originally Posted by sleepaholic
    And yes I know the drain pipe isn't done properly either...
    That is certainly an interesting connection!

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member Marlin336's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Suffolk, NY
    Posts
    187

    Default

    Are you removing the cabinets? If you are once they're out I'd just cut right above the floor, elbow over, and come back up. Basically run the line between the cabinets and floor. Your only other option is to open up the ceiling or floor to access the line.

  6. #6
    Plumber patrick88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Webster Ma.
    Posts
    836

    Default

    Are you removing the cabinets? If you are once they're out I'd just cut right above the floor, elbow over, and come back up. Basically run the line between the cabinets and floor.
    that would be your best option.
    I'm just starting to work with an old friend of mine to bring solar electric and hot water systems, wind turbines, Flex Fuel Boilers, batteries, hydroponic gardening, books, pellet grills and more. Also the parts for DIY installation.

  7. #7

    Default

    Is it ok to use 'Sharkbite' fittings to do the elbow, or does this require new copper and solder?

  8. #8
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    9,001

    Default

    Theoretically, and by code usually, Sharkbites can be used. They are not exactly new, but many of us would be more comfortable with a soldered connection in a location where you would never see a drip until it was too late to prevent damage. Probably just "old folks syndrome"!!!!!

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member Marlin336's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Suffolk, NY
    Posts
    187

    Default

    It defiantly requires new copper. That riser you have now is for all practical purposes destroyed because of the saddle valve. You can get a five foot piece of half inch copper from Home Depot for probably about ten bucks.

    So long as a shark bite fitting is code approved where you are you could use them. They aren't cheap though and you're going to need at least two elbows and you need to get the speedy valve on there somehow (do they make compression speedy valves?). I'd rather see it soldered personally.

  10. #10
    Plumber patrick88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Webster Ma.
    Posts
    836

    Default

    Is it ok to use 'Sharkbite' fittings to do the elbow, or does this require new copper and solder?
    I think the sharkbite fittings are a little large not to sure but you may run out of room. You might hit the bottom of the cabinet.
    I'm just starting to work with an old friend of mine to bring solar electric and hot water systems, wind turbines, Flex Fuel Boilers, batteries, hydroponic gardening, books, pellet grills and more. Also the parts for DIY installation.

  11. #11

    Default

    I understand that copper would be the prefered method. However, I'm a little concerned with setting the floor on fire since the elbows would have to be soldered so close to the floor boards; since I gotta run the elbows under the cabinets, so like 5 inches or so.

    Is a really short run of PEX using an adaptor for copper do-able? Can I put a shut-off value at the end of the PEX? Not familiar at all with PEX, just from what I've read on the forums.

  12. #12
    Licensed Grump GrumpyPlumber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Licensed Grump
    Posts
    1,404

    Default

    As for concerns with burning the floor, two things to note.
    Flame angle doesn't have to point at the floor, keep the torch handle near the floor and angle even or upwards.
    ALWAYS keep a fire extinguisher next to you.
    "The biggest regrets we have in life are the chances we never took."

  13. #13

    Default

    Maybe I'm not seeing what it is that you're trying to do but why not just cut out a section of the drywall below?

    Overall your life will be easier and the install will be better.

    Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forwards.

    Tom

  14. #14

    Default

    Well, the ceiling of the basement is finished with plaster. And there is a 'swirly' plaster detailing across the whole ceiling, so cutting a hole through the middle of it would not be an easy patch to fix.

    Thats why I'm looking for solutions from above, preferably not using solder due to the fire threat.

  15. #15

    Default

    That does change things but if you patch the drywall and just call in a Drywaller to do the swirl that shouldn't cost much.

    Tom

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •