Cast iron pipe cracks

[homework]

I have a cast iron waste pipe in my basement which has recently developed a hairline crack and is leaking small amounts of water. The leak has developed in a section of pipe about 4 feet off the floor immediately above a joint. The crack extends upward from the joint about 18 inches. I think this waste line extends vertically from the roof directly to the basement. The house is 80 years old and I am not enthusiastic about replacing this segament of pipe. What is the recommended method of pathching cast iron pipe??

[hj]

There is none. The "patch" is to replace the pipe. Even if you could patch it, corrosion building up inside the crack will just make it go further.

[Gary Swart]

You might temporarily patch it with epoxy, but the pipe will have to be replaced. Getting the old one out is the main problem. It can be replaced with PVC or ABS fairly easily after the old stuff is removed. Not a job of the weak at heart or inexperienced. It's heavier than sin and can cause serious injury if not properly handled. It shouldn't cost too much to replace if that's all you need done.

[homework]

Thanks for the fast replies. Is the weight of the waste line carried on the pipe itself or is it typically transferred onto the framing?

[RioHyde]

That really depends on who installed it. I've seen them anchored to the studs and I've seen them with nothing more to hold them than the fittings themselves. I like to use riser clamps, all thread rod and "sammys" (or 3/8" drop in anchors in concrete) to support dwv piping. Of course, since I left the commercial construction end of things and came over to residential service/remodel, I've been told I "overkill" it. My way of thinking is a pipe well supported is a pipe properly installed. You'll want to anchor the pipe securely above the point where you're going to snap/cut it. You might want to get a professional in there to do this. I really dont recommend a DIYer to wrestle this animal.