Seahawk Highlights Video (206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle

Thread: Kitchen sink drain and trap

1. Kitchen sink drain and trap

I recently rennovated my kitchen, including the plumbing service and sink. I've now reinstalled the sink, garbage disposal, and the P-trap.

My question pertains to the level of the drains from the sink and disposal relative to the P-trap. I'll try to describe the setup:

From the wall, the 2" drain curves downward to connect to the standard P-trap. The P-trap, of course, curves upward and sits ready to accept the tee that joins the sink and disposal.

As a result of the new sink, which is lower than the original and has off-center drains, the tee is 1" to 2" LOWER than the mouth of the P-trap.

I assume that since gravity is the force that makes this setup work effectively, I must LOWER the P-trap to meet the tee. Is this correct?

2. yes, gravity will only work if water can flow downwards (along an almost flat line) to the P trap.

The Tee you mention is before the P trap, connecting two things both leading into the P trap. Your statement about the pipe coming out of the P trap and going into the wall is not well written, or else it shows there is a big problem.
Originally Posted by shawnkey
... 2" drain curves downward to connect to the standard P-trap. ...
From the wall to the P trap, or from the P trap to wall, which way is up or down, and by how much? Gravity works there too, and water needs to drain out of the P trap.

david

3. Diagram of setup

I have attached a picture that approximately represents the setup.

In the diagram where you see slip nut (just below the wrench), there's a 90 degree elbow that connects to the tee.

Is this setup problematic?

4. As long as the leg going into the wall doesn't have to have a fitting in it that makes it try to go uphill, it is fine. If you'll notice, the inlet to the P-trap is higher than the outlet. You can't have the outlet trying to go up any further than that final bend to make it horizontal.

5. you need to make the tee shorter in one way or another.

I assume you have a tail piece coming off the basket strainer, and the 90 fitting off the disposer. if you cut these to make them shorter will that give you the room you need.

6. drain

We would have to see a picture of the tee. Many disposers are connected in a less than optimum manner which places the tee lower than necessary. If this is not the case, in your situation, then the only solution is to lower the pipe.

7. I agree with the above statement, without pics we're grabbing at straws.
The drain coming out of the wall is supposed to be between 12" & 15" high for a garbage disposal to work.
Also, the terminology Shawn uses is a bit confusing, "curve" implies there's a radial/circular shape to the pipe, what I think he means is "pitch", unsure of what direction the "pitch" is going when he says:

"From the wall, the 2" drain curves downward to connect to the standard P-trap."
The drains pitch should go up from the wall, down from the P-trap.

8. I have attached a pic of the drain setup. Notice that the drain in the wall IS higher than the inlet to the trap.

The drains in the sink are closer to the rear than the original sink, and the basins are different sizes (the one on the left is deeper and therefore lower). All this has created the somewhat jumbled setup that I have rigged in order to have water service.

I'm certain that you can guess what my story of woe is at this point. While I've fixed all the leaks, there is not enough gravity to pull the water out of the drain. Water stands just below the drain fitting in the basin on the left.

WHAT SHOULD I DO!?

9. funny! weird! no good.

right you are, this is a bad way for drain pipes to be.

david

10. Your kitchen sink was never plumbed for a disposer let alone one of those new deep sinks, and new sink w/disposer way off. Wow

The only way to fix that is to open the wall and re pipe the drain.

There is nothing right about it. Looks like you have water sitting in the bottom of the disposer all the time. Thats not good probably rot it real fast.

11. Cut open the wall and drop the waste inlet tee a foot...
That should give you enough room to pipe the wink properly...

12. ahhhh, now I understand the reference to "curve".
That corrugated drainage is a no-no...all the above responses are correct...you're gonna have to open the wall and drop the tee-wye inside.
The way the drain is set up, you have a trap all the way up to the wall, in other words there's constant water inside that piping & partly in the diosposal as well.
I bet money the bottom of the inside of the cabinet is a wreck from water damage.

13. Couldnt he put an extention from the trap crown and make the trap seal

14. Originally Posted by cwhyu2
Couldnt he put an extention from the trap crown and make the trap seal
that would not be in code. it would also keep water in the disposer rotting it. plus would cause the drain to clog probably often.

15. Your right pat what was I thinking

Posting Permissions

• You may not post new threads
• You may not post replies
• You may not post attachments
• You may not edit your posts
•