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Thread: PVC fitting ?

  1. #1
    Retired tool & Die and Mechanic Giles's Avatar
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    Default PVC fitting ?



    Do they make a PVC coupling that will allow me to run my toilet into the 3" drain from the side--straight through the wall--- and run the vent out the top? The coupling would look like a double 'Y' only one of the 'Y's would be exiting the top. I know I can use another 'Y' fitting for the vent but would like to use one for both the vent and drain. THANKS
    Last edited by Terry; 09-15-2007 at 06:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Retired tool & Die and Mechanic Giles's Avatar
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    Really surprised---Thought someone would be willing to help me.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default ?

    We would if we could figure out what you are talking about. A double Y with one branch facing upwards would mean the other side is down, and there is no way you could install it that way.

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    Licensed Grump GrumpyPlumber's Avatar
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    Giles, I read your post last night.
    I stand with HJ...doesn't make sense, you mean a wall mounted toilet?
    "The biggest regrets we have in life are the chances we never took."

  5. #5
    Retired tool & Die and Mechanic Giles's Avatar
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    I am NOT a plumber, but I have a good understanding of the craft. I have plumbed two houses and have done all my plumbing for 45 years. However, I have never plumbed a basement. All I am trying to do is to buy the least amount of parts and do the job right. Just because I dont use the proper words doesn't mean I know nothing. I am a tool-and-die maker by trade and have helped many people that knew nothing about machinest work. I guess I was expecting the same here. I am sorry if I cannot explain my situation, but I will try again.---I plan to install a saddle fitting, just off the floor, and run a 3" line for about 20'. The toilet will be rear discharge floor mounted and will be elevated about 6" off the floor. The toilet is about 15' from the saddle "T". The lavitory will be next along the basement wall and then the tub. The tub drain will have to be elevated about 13". I plan to run the plumbing straight through the wall and enter the main 3" drain line through the side. I know each fixture must be vented and the simplest way to do this is to go straight up off each fitting. The fittings I would like to use look like this-- Draw a circle as though you are looking straight into the main line. On the left side of the circle, draw a straight line. This represents the fixture entry. Now on top of the circle draw a line straight up. This represents the vent. I hope someone will understand this. I thought my question would be simple, sorry if I can't explain what I want.

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    Licensed Grump GrumpyPlumber's Avatar
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    Giles, I was a machinist for a few years, to the point where I did my own set-ups on cnc lathes.
    When you use the word "saddle" it means your looking to cut a hole in the pipe and clamp a fitting onto it...which is a no-no.
    I could illustrate the importance of terminology by saying I want a tube that has an "accentric" diameter when I what I mean is "concentric", how would you describe an undercut to someone who can't see the example you're trying to explain?
    My point is you'd do well to either get pics or draw a diagram, I almost get the impression you're irritated with us for not understanding your terminology.
    Try to imagine explaining how to set- up and touch off the tools on a high tolerance milling machine for say...missle parts that have tolerances within ten thousandths.
    Give us a diagram, or some pics.
    Last edited by GrumpyPlumber; 09-06-2007 at 10:10 AM.
    "The biggest regrets we have in life are the chances we never took."

  7. #7
    Retired tool & Die and Mechanic Giles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrumpyPlumber
    Giles, I was a machinist for a few years, to the point where I did my own set-ups on cnc lathes.
    When you use the word "saddle" it means your looking to cut a hole in the pipe and clamp a fitting onto it...which is a no-no.
    I could illustrate the importance of terminology by saying I want a tube that has an "accentric" diameter when I what I mean is "concentric", how would you describe an undercut to someone who can't see the example you're trying to explain?
    My point is you'd do well to either get pics or draw a diagram, I almost get the impression you're irritated with us for not understanding your terminology.
    Try to imagine explaining how to set- up and touch off the tools on a high tolerance milling machine for say...missle parts that have tolerances within ten thousandths.
    Give us a diagram, or some pics.
    I have never posted a picture but I will give it a try. No, I am not aggrivated with anyone. This is no big deal, I will work it out. There will be only one saddle fitting and it will be glued just above the concrete. I could cut a 2' section out of the 4" pipe and install a "T" just off the floor. Then install a short piece of pipe on the top of the "T". Cut a section of the removed 4" pipe that will just fit the gap and connect with rubber Fernco sleeves. I hesitate to do this because I have two bathrooms above and this might disturb the flange seals or cause other problems. Which of these methods would be the best, or do you have other ideas without removing concrete? Why is the saddle a "no-no" ? I certanly appreciate your input.

  8. #8
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Saddles?

    All waste fittings have some sweep to them.
    From Horizontal to vertical, it would be a SanTee
    For Vertical to Horizontal, it would be a wye or combo fitting.
    For couplings, you would use a shielded coupling with metal around it to prevent the pipes from shifting.

  9. #9
    Homeowner geniescience's Avatar
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    giles, i read the description you wrote.

    Technically, no, and code-wise, no, and will it cause big problems, no, not right away, and might it cause small problems yes, and maybe big ones, yes.

    Like Terry said, you need sweeps to go from vertical to horizontal. Vents need that too. So, you must buy one more part.

    The part you described coud be used when oriented 90 degress the other way, as a Double San Tee, each branch going off at rigth angle to the other. But it is too tight, too much of a tight turn, for that application.

    AFAIK, and assuming i caught the geometry as imagined.

    david

  10. #10
    Plumber patrick88's Avatar
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    I would just open the floor and i bet you would be much happier with how it looks.
    If you do plan on cutting into the drain stack you would want to strap, or support the cast iron so it doesn't drop. They make all sorts of handers and other types of items for keeping the cast iron from falling. There is nothing worse than making a nice cut just what you need and have the pipes drop a fraction of an inch or more.
    I'm just starting to work with an old friend of mine to bring solar electric and hot water systems, wind turbines, Flex Fuel Boilers, batteries, hydroponic gardening, books, pellet grills and more. Also the parts for DIY installation.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default bath

    1. You cannot use a saddle to make the connection.
    2. Do you really want the tub that high off the floor?
    3. Do you ever plan to sell the house and move, because if so, that bath will be a deal breaker to any buyer that wants a "real" bath in the basement.
    4. The fitting you are looking for is a side inlet sanitary tee, and it cannot be used the way you intend to do it.
    5. Would you recommend that someone machine an item the easiest way that will work, rather than the way it should be done?
    6. And would you advise the above person to cut a machine thread with a three corner file, or contact an expert with the proper machinery?

  12. #12
    Master Plumber Dunbar Plumbing's Avatar
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    Thumbs down deplorable

    Quote Originally Posted by patrick88
    I would just open the floor

    This is what the majority of unlicensed try to avoid and sell up the idea that they don't "need" to.

    Then guys like me, look at the customer, then look at me, then I look at that piping arrangement, then look at me, then look at the floor in shame knowing they got ripped off and it all has to come out to be done right.
    Read what the end of this sentence means.

  13. #13
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    I guess I have been upgraded from a Ridgid pipe wrench to the Grand Canyon.

  14. #14
    Retired tool & Die and Mechanic Giles's Avatar
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    I respect and appreciate ALL the professional advice! With my limited knowledge, I have considered many ways to do this job. I serched the enternet many times and then I came across this Excellent site. I think most everyone is advising me to dig the concrete out. As an alternate solution, would anyone suggest that I use a pumping system. What advise could you give me about the Sanigrind or Sanibest system? There is an existing "T" about 4' off the floor and it is what I call a straight "T" with a threaded plug. Could this be used for the 3/4 or 1" discharge line?---THANKS--

  15. #15
    Commercial Plumber markts30's Avatar
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    I think that most here are going to discourage any "easy fixes" as they are not the "right" way to do it...
    The best way (and only a bit more time consuming) is to crack the slab and do the piping underground...

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