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Thread: wet angle stop

  1. #1

    Default wet angle stop

    I replaced both angle stops in my bathroom. That was relativly easy with only unscrewing the old , cleaning up the threads on the nipples[attached to a brass fitting attached to the studs], putting on teflon tape to the nipple threads and screwing the angle stops on. Everything seems fine except the hot water angle stop will have a wet spot under where the angle stop and nipple meet.I confirmed this with a sheet of tissue paper. It does NOT drip as I have had a bucket under it to check for that problem. I cant tighten it any more[almost 2 full turns] but I dont like this wet spot and dont know what to do. Help please

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member Marlin336's Avatar
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    Are you sure it's right at the threads? I've had plenty of new angle valves where I've had to tighten the packing nut.
    What are you using to tighten it and are you sure it's tight?

    If it is indeed leaking at the threads and tight enough I'd take it back off, dope the nipple, and Teflon it (about three turns). You don't really have to use both but I like to.

  3. #3
    Consultant cwhyu2's Avatar
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    Take it back off remove the tape you just put on and ad pipe dope to the
    threads then teflon.Brass nipples cah be tricky.

  4. #4

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    I used a pipe wrench. How do you tighten the packing nut?

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member Marlin336's Avatar
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    Just give that nut on the front of the valve a little turn with an adjustable wrench. It should be just snug, don't kill it or you'll wreck the valve.

  6. #6
    Engineer Furd's Avatar
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    I agree that brass nipples (or copper thread adapters) into brass valves or fittings can easily leak. In the olden days I found that teflon tape alone would not keep them from leaking and I would use Permatex number two compound. Now I use teflon tape and a teflon paste over the tape.

  7. #7

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    I removed the stop and removed and reapplied teflon tape and noticed on the nipple some what looks to be old pipe dope that was halfway on the nipple and I couldnt get it off[even with a wire brush.] I suspect that is preventing a proper seal. Any tips, concerns, etc about removing the close nipple. Do I just try to unscrew in place and hand tighten into the angle stop and then tighten the whole unit into the brass fitting.[nipple is brass] Thanks What can I use to break down old pipe dope so I dont have to replace nipple[solvent,etc]
    Last edited by rg21; 09-02-2007 at 10:11 AM.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by rg21
    What can I use to break down old pipe dope so I dont have to replace nipple[solvent,etc]
    If a wire brush won't work, try chipping it off with a small screwdriver or an awl. Just be careful of the threads.

  9. #9
    Licensed Grump GrumpyPlumber's Avatar
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    Don't try hammering away at it with a screwdriver, you'll break the nipple inside the wall.
    Heat it lightly with a torch while rubbing off the old dope with a wire brush.
    "The biggest regrets we have in life are the chances we never took."

  10. #10
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    A stiff steel bristle brush has always worked well for me...
    Master Plumber Mark:

    there is nothing better than the
    manly smell of WD 40 in the air
    while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...

    it smells like......victory......

    do not hit your thumb...
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  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrumpyPlumber
    Don't try hammering away at it with a screwdriver, you'll break the nipple inside the wall.
    Heat it lightly with a torch while rubbing off the old dope with a wire brush.
    I meant, but wasn't clear, to scrape it off with an awl or small screwdriver without using a hammer. A plumber told me a long time ago, that hammers and plumbing don't mix.

    BTW, I agree with Frenchie, I've always had success with a stiff wire brush, even on old, corroded galvanized pipes.
    Last edited by Verdeboy; 09-03-2007 at 10:54 AM.

  12. #12
    Licensed Grump GrumpyPlumber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Verdeboy
    I meant, but wasn't clear, to scrape it off with an awl or small screwdriver without using a hammer. A plumber told me a long time ago, that hammers and plumbing don't mix.

    BTW, I agree with Frenchie, I've always had success with a stiff wire brush, even on old, corroded galvanized pipes.

    Right, I just wanted to let him know that heating the stub will soften the old dope...then wire brush the gooey stuff off, would take far less torque and less chance to jeopardize existing pipe.
    Whenever I see IPS stubs I cringe, have had one or two break inside walls just from tightening a new stop on.
    On the note, use TWO channel locks..one to hold the stub steady, the other to tighten the stop.
    "The biggest regrets we have in life are the chances we never took."

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrumpyPlumber
    Right, I just wanted to let him know that heating the stub will soften the old dope...then wire brush the gooey stuff off, would take far less torque and less chance to jeopardize existing pipe.
    Good point about the heating. Hadn't thought about that. Might it not be a good idea to use a heat gun, rather than a torch though?

  14. #14
    Licensed Grump GrumpyPlumber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Verdeboy
    Good point about the heating. Hadn't thought about that. Might it not be a good idea to use a heat gun, rather than a torch though?
    I dunno if a heat gun would do it, but you have a point, a torch could over heat it if you don't know when to pull the flame away.
    "The biggest regrets we have in life are the chances we never took."

  15. #15

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    For stubborn stuff I use a small wire wheel and my cordless drill, works great

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