replacing water main

Our 70 feet 3/4 " water main has had three leaks in a year and seems to have been patched up to begin with.

I am thinking of renting a trencher and replacing it myself to avoid the big bill. I am handy, learn fast, but have no plumbing experiece. Am I biting more than I can chew on this one?

A couple of Questions: The contractor that came out to do an estimate suggested I use Pex pipe. What are the pros/cons of pex vs. copper? What material do you suggest?

The old main does not run in a straight line. It makes an L for no apparent reason. Do you suggest to follow the path and depth of the old line or attempt the straight (shorter, no corners) ?

I know ther's flexible copper. How tight a curve can I make with it?

Finally, could I just go ahead an do this, or does it require inspection?

Thanks!
monemi

Since you seem to be a 'city' water company customer, they or local codes may not allow you do it and require a certain plumber of have a list of approved plumbers.

As to material, I suggest a 100 or larger roll of 1" 160 psi rated PE pipe. It wanders in the trench as you unroll it on the grass either side of the trench and that takes care of potential contraction/expansion problems. It only has two fittings, one on each end, they should be SS and you should use two opposed SS hose clamps on each fitting.

You keep it off sharp rocks and don't bury it with sharp rocks on it and it lasts decades.

We are only alowed t/k soft copper in our area@48"deep.
Your codes may be different,Iwould conntact a plumber in your area that does this alot.Check referances.
Straight as possible.

If you dig the trench and backfill, you could probably save a fair amount of the costs, but you'd have to check with the plumber to see if that is acceptable. Even having the trench dug before he gets there should limit the manhours required, so should save even if he fills. Packing a rock and crimping or impaling the pipe would be your fault, not the plumber's, if you do it, and he may be leary about you doing it and him warrantying it.

Depending on where you live, you may be able to get a permit to do this all yourself...you have to ask. Note, often, you must get the water company to turn the water off to make the connection to their main shutoff - touching that can be messy. If you have everything ready to connect, it could be quicker if they'll stay. Maybe you could talk them into a new meter, and you could have it all ready to just switch over at their shutoff.

If you run into problems, though, you might end up without water for awhile, so a licensed plumber may be the smarter way to go.

If you hand-dig at both ends you can find what parts and tools you need and get them on site. Then dig the trench along a new route, using a trencher or other means. When that is all set, get the water turned off and connect your pipe.

While you are at it, put in a new ball valve where it comes into the house unless it is a fairly new valve.

After it is hooked up, test it before you close the trench. You now have water and all you have to do is fill the trench.

If you are doing the trenching, do not try to cut corners - get "blue stake" out...
You do not want to have to pay for cut cables or electric (or gas!!!) to be fixed...
Always call before you dig...

In our area, it is called "Dig Alert" but whatever they call it , get it checked out before you dig.

Thanks for all the info, everyone! I've always wondered how you find out where your utility calbes are (we don't have gas) Are "Blue Stake" and "Dig Alert" a type of service to locate utilities?

Yes. In many localities you can get in real trouble if you don't call them first before digging around and cut something. They'll mark where the things are so you can avoid them.

Call 811

http://www.call811.com/

The first thing you have to do is check your local codes. Are you allowed to do this yourself? How deep does the line need to be? Where must the curb stop be located? Can you keep the meter inside or do you have to move it outside? Do they require you to use a bender to install the meter outside? What kind of fittings can you use? Where the copper comes through the wall it must be sleeved with a sleeve twice the size of the pipe.

Is the main under the road? If it's on the other side of the road you will defiantly need to call a professional as it must be missiled (a very expensive piece of equipment) or the whole road must be trenched across. The town will not allow you to close the road and dig it up unless they know you have the capability to quickly do to job. If it's on your side of the road and you live on a low traffic street you might possibly get a permit. The job defiantly does need to be inspected by the water department, and you are expected to hire someone to repair any damage to the road or sidewalk.

As you can tell by the replies, local codes vary so the best thing to do is to go to your city utilities or code department and ask them what you can do, what you can't do, and what all of the local requirements and restrictions are before you start anything.

Yes, there is a big difference between here in S. Calif. where the meter box is at ground level near the curb, and the pipes are 12" deep......and someplace where frost line has the pipes 4 feet down!