PVC into CI flange- one more time

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kirwin2

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I'm new to the forum, if there's another thread that answers this, just point me to it: The cast iron elbow connecting the waste line inside my house to the cast iron pipe that goes to the septic tank failed. The flanged end of the septic line rests about 2 inches inside the block wall : I chipped out the concrete around the flange, and also cleaned out the lead and oakum in the flange. I'd like to avoid cutting the flange off, since it would make lots more work for me to dig out the pipe where it exits the foundation wall. It looks like a donut would be the way to go if I can get one with the 'right fit'. I'd then have to recement the hole in the foundation around the flange -
The overall length of the PVC pipe going into the flange/donut would only be maybe 6 inches - just enough to come through the wall and connect to the new 90 that mates to the existing copper waste line .
Any input or feedback is appreciated, this is the first one I've ever worked on.
 

TMB9862

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Just to clarify, I believe you're talking about a hub. It's the part of the cast iron pipe that gets wider and another piece goes in and is attached with lead & oakum or a dual tight?

It sounds like you've got if figured out already. You either have to get a donut that fits or put the PVC in there and pour it. It is probably doesn't matter in this case but in a lot of areas you can't use PVC outside or underground, I don't know if inside the foundation wall would count as underground. I defiantly wouldn't worry about it failing, and you would need some real jerk inspector to call you on that.

How are you connecting to the copper?
 

kirwin2

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You are right, it is a hub, I used the wrong word. In our area, as far as I konw Schedule 40 pvc can be used underground . If I can't find a correct size donut, you mentioned 'pouring': what could I use to fill the gap instead of the donut? Some epoxy of some kind?
Once I'm done, the last step will be to fill in the "gap" around the pipe with concrete again - though I'm considering making a form to keep the pipes from being covered up again... just in case.
To connect to the copper drain pipe, I'm going to use a 3" to 4" rubber connector. Originally there was a 3" copper tubing soldered to a copper casting that fit into the top of the 4" CI elbow. I removed the tubing and casting, the rubber connector fits perfectly over the outside of the 3" fitting the copper tubing was sweated into.
 

TMB9862

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kirwin2 said:
You are right, it is a hub, I used the wrong word. In our area, as far as I konw Schedule 40 pvc can be used underground . If I can't find a correct size donut, you mentioned 'pouring': what could I use to fill the gap instead of the donut? Some epoxy of some kind?
Once I'm done, the last step will be to fill in the "gap" around the pipe with concrete again - though I'm considering making a form to keep the pipes from being covered up again... just in case.
To connect to the copper drain pipe, I'm going to use a 3" to 4" rubber connector. Originally there was a 3" copper tubing soldered to a copper casting that fit into the top of the 4" CI elbow. I removed the tubing and casting, the rubber connector fits perfectly over the outside of the 3" fitting the copper tubing was sweated into.
Pouring would be stuffing the space with oakum then pouring molten lead into the joint to fill it. I have seen people use oakum and epoxy, it works but I'm sure it isn't code and I wouldn't really trust it.
You should be fine tieing in that way. Just be sure to get a 3in copper to 4in pvc no hub clamp. Don't use the ferncos that home depot sells.
 

Jadnashua

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You could get a plumber to lead in a new piece of cast iron. You'd have to check with your local inspector to see if they allow it, but there is a sealant that comes in a caulking type tube that can be used with oakum. Finding a place that has some, and then finding some that isn't so old it won't flow out of the tube could be a challenge. The instructions say to use a layer of oakum, a layer of the caulk, and repeat so you have three layers. There may be an epoxy that meets codes...one of the pros would know, but this is a local inspector thing.

Take careful measurements of the inside diameter of the hub, then check out the Fernco website to find out the proper donut size. Too big, you'll never get the thing installed, too loose it will leak, you really need just right.

HD around here carries only one size...not sure how well stocked the local supply houses are, but if you find out the proper size for your hub, it's easier to call around.
 

Cwhyu2

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A pvc spigot would work.It is designed to go inside the hub.Then pack oakum
then lead wool.
 

kirwin2

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I lucked out: Lowes had a donut that worked - it did need quite a bit of "persuasion" to get all together, but I'm back in business. Last step is to fill in the hole in foundation wall - and make a form to keep the concrete from covering up the hub/donut/Sch40 connection.... just in case...
thanks all for your input!
 

Jadnashua

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If your hole is small, try some hydraulic cement. It sets fast, expands a little as it sets, and seals thing up great. It's more like beach sand (but with very fine sand), so no forms are required. Don't mix more than you can install in the time listed on the container...it sets fast.
 
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