Installing one piece Fiberglass tub and shower

**katman104** · 08-20-2007, 06:21 PM

Have several questions about the topic.
1. Does instructions come with unit? (AquaGlass 326032A)
2. What height is standard for faucet valve?
3. What height is standard for shower head?
4. What type material do you use for finish around the shower.( I know that the enclosure screws directly to the wall studs)
5. Do you use any kind of fill under the enclosure for firmness and if so what?
6. From the top flange of the enclosure what is used here? Special sheetrock or what.
If anyone knows I wold appreciate the help. I have done searches and really found no firm answers to these questions. I did not want to drill a hole in the enclosure for the shower head if at all possible.
I am removing a metal tub and the space is 60.25 inches.
Thanks in advance

**BAPlumber** · 08-20-2007, 07:16 PM

in a shower, I like to rough in the valve at 48" and the shower head at 78".

**katman104** · 08-21-2007, 02:11 PM

Thanks BAPlumber for the info.
Think I have the answers to the rest of the questions.

**frenchie** · 08-21-2007, 02:15 PM

Terry, what happened to my post, and why?

I don't know. There are a few moderators that can delete posts.
Terry

**katman104** · 09-04-2007, 06:45 AM

Hi once again,
Got all my plumbing roughed in and ready to slide tub into "Hopefully" it's final resting place

1. Need to know on the drain for the tub ....instructions say to use plumbers putty under the rubber gasket, is this necessary or can you use clear silicone in it's place?
2. I have access under the floor, I bought a Schedule 40 triplever bath drain and my question on this is , can all of it be attached to the tub except the "T", waste pipe between the tub elbow, before the tub is put in it's final resting place?I know that the arrow on the "T" has to go down. HEEEEEEELLLLLLPPPPP can someone in the know answer the two questions above!
Thanks
Katman104

**jadnashua** · 09-04-2007, 06:57 AM

On a side-note...look carefully at the bottom of the unit. Most will be well served by installing them in a bed of mortar. Otherwise, the flex between the ribs (assuming it has some) will quickly lead to checking of the finish and weakening of the structure - plus, it just doesn't feel substantial.

**katman104** · 09-04-2007, 02:34 PM

jadnashua,
This unit has a piece of plywood molded with the fiberglass underneath it and then has this supported by a piece of 2x lumber for about 75% of the underside( lengthwise) Seems pretty steady when you are standing and moving in it.
Katman104

**leejosepho** · 09-08-2007, 05:06 AM

Originally Posted by katman104

This unit has a piece of plywood molded with the fiberglass underneath it and then has this supported by a piece of 2x lumber for about 75% of the underside (lengthwise) ...

Unless that piece of 2x sits firmly and flatly on the floor, the bottom of the tub is still going to flex. To prove that, stand the unit against a wall and stick a hand underneath to check while an adult steps in and out of the tub ... then mentally add water at a little over 8 lbs. per gallon.

Fiberglass tubs need mortar beds to eliminate flex.

**Bosun** · 09-11-2007, 05:40 AM

You must do a mortar bed. Unhappiness will otherwise result. I had an Americast tub (mortar optional) that felt like crap. It flexed slightly. My brother then installed the same tub correctly at his house. Feels like a cast iron tub.

You must do mortar bed, or you will be unhappy with it in the long run.