Yes, I have considered this but I would either have to have someone professionally cut a hole for the 30A inlet, or mount a box externally on the side of the trailer for the 30A inlet and just drill a hole to run the wire into the wire through.Originally Posted by Bob NH
If not for the newer NEC code saying not to have multiple electrical systems on an RV I could easily add a second system to the back of the trailer and have the inlet sticking out from the trailer. Doing so on the side is probably a bad idea, having something sticking out like that on the street side of the trailer a good several inches. I could mount the inlet on the back and run a very long UF cable to the cabinet with the existing breaker is, and simply add in a second breaker, though that would be a lot of UF cable to have to run. If I knew anyone to do the hole cutting I'd just have them do it. I'd do better to put a new breaker near the back of the trailer and run a long, lesser gauge wire to the existing hookup inlet since the wire would cost less.
Seems to me, I just need to watch **** for a catalytic heater with an oxygen cutoff censor for a low price. Sadly I just missed one for under $150 shipped that normally sells for $230+shipping for the newer version of it.
The catalytic heater I have now is an Colemen one that only has gas cuttoff so if the combustion process stops, it cuts off the gas. No low oxygen cut off sensor. I will simply have to be careful and use common sense with it by leaving a window open while running it and not run it while asleep. A 600W heater run at night should do fine on the trailer's electrical system without overloading it. May not keep me toasty warm but it would certainly keep a complete chill from setting in. A small table top one kept on the dinette table would be safe. No walls would be around it for several feet and it would be off the floor so it can't be tripped on.