(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Connection Leaking on Frost Free Faucet

  1. #1

    Default Connection Leaking on Frost Free Faucet

    Installed 2 outdoor frost free faucets a few days ago. One is leaking where the arrow is in the photograph. The other leaked in the same place, repaired the leak by completely resetting with new pipe, then it blew completely off the line sometime last night. We allowed plenty of time for the glue to set/seal. The faucets are pretty heavy considering how small the line is that they're connected to. Is there a 'best' way to install and stabilize these faucets?
    Also - water pressure is set very low so don't think that's the problem.
    thanks.




  2. #2
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    5,984

    Default

    #1 Did you use cleaner B 4 using the glue.

    #2 did you purchase the right glue for the CPVC, read the can label.

    #3 How long did you wait B 4 threading on the yard hydrant?

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member Mr_Pike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    136

    Default

    You will likely see more of this, as this is not the correct method for installing hydrants. And unless you live someplace that doesn't get any frost, these will not be frost free. At least half of that shaft needs to be under ground, with the base surrounded in gravel or rock. When you close handle, all the remaining water in the stand pipe drains out of that brass fixture at the bottom. It needs to be surrounded in rock and gravel so it has some place to drain to.


    You are placing a ton of stress on that PVC Tee.

    We would rarely place a hydrant directly on a main water line, especially PVC. If something bumps into this hydrant, you get an instant pipe break and a large muddy mess.

    I know you already have this installed, but I would replace that PVC with 1" or 1 -1/4" black poly pipe rated for 125 lbs pressure. Wherever you need a hydrant, install an insert t, use stainless screw clamps, and then about a 2 foot piece of that same pipe coming off that T. At the open end, place a BRASS or STEEL hydrant adapter elbow (insert x female Iron pipe threads). This allows enough flex in the system, that operating the handle, or a bump against the hydrant will not damage the underground piping. If you have any animals, you will be amazed at what they do to yard hydrants trying to get the "magic post" to make more water. The only thing that damages more hydrants than livestock, is MOWERS.

    PS, don't bury that valve. Take it out completely or it belongs inside that building.

    PPS, don't use gate valves if at all possible. Use ball valves for better flow and resistance to leaks.
    Last edited by Mr_Pike; 08-13-2007 at 09:09 AM.

  4. #4
    Sprinkler Guy Wet_Boots's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Metro NYC
    Posts
    798

    Default

    Consider ripping it all out and starting over. Those yard hydrants are intended to be connected to water-well-quality poly pipe and brass insert fittings that are buried below the frost line.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •