Please make fun of this

Molo · Aug 11, 2007

What's wrong here? please tell me if this s unsafe in any way. I will be building a partition with easy access to the tank between the sink and the tank. until then are there any probs. here?

TIa,
molo

Dunbar Plumbing · Aug 11, 2007

The romex needs to be in conduit, the existing hole in the wall for the flue IF that was a gas water heater before needs to be capped, and the T&P drip leg needs to be piped out to grade or indirect to a floor drain or tub/mop with correctly sized air gap distance.

Water heaters gas or electric are not allowed in bathrooms in KY so the partition is a good idea no matter what sate it is.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Cruiser · Aug 11, 2007

But at least the hot water will get to that faucet REALLY fast

hj · Aug 11, 2007

heater

Installing a partition will not remove it from the bathroom, and I do not see how any partition could be installed which would give "easy access" to the water heater. PEX cannot be used for the relief valve drain in most areas, and if it just goes down to that safety pan it will overflow after about 5 seconds of discharge.

Molo · Aug 11, 2007

1. i will cover the hole (HAdn"t gotten THeRE YET)

2. tHE t&P GOES INTO THE CRAWL SPACE THROUGH A HOLD i drilled in tHE FlOOR.

3. i"m hoping to bUIld THE PARTITION AND ONCE THAT IS UP WILL THE ROMEX STILL NEED CONDUIT?

tia,
MOLO

Dunbar Plumbing · Aug 11, 2007

Switch the type of pipe that the T&P relief line is made of.....if it goes into the crawlspace it has to go into a drain, not the dirt floor.

Someone has to see if it is malfunctioning and that's why KY wants it ran outside so someone can notice it's running. Otherwise a problem can go unnoticed.

I'm no electrician but any wire that's capable of being damaged in open air space has to be in conduit of some type.

In basements the conduit has to protect the wire from the bottom of the joist to the top of the device it serves.

Overkill it might seem but that jacket can be easily torn and now you have a electrocution possibility.

GrumpyPlumber · Aug 11, 2007

Um...anybody notice a slight lack of vacuum breaker?
Also...copper right on the nipples...ouch ...got brass?
Also...I might be wrong, but I don't think I see a pan under the tank...the horror, the horror.
Also...what the heck is running off that T&P???
PLASTIC!!!
(though some states allow it...mine prohibits any plastic within 24" linear distance to the heater)
Molo...I'm happy to say you're not a competitive threat to any plumbers in your area.
(Thread title "Please make fun of this"...you got it!)

Bob NH · Aug 11, 2007

You should be able to run the wire in a piece of Flexible Metal Conduit. Put a small box at the joist level and connect the FMC from the box to the water heater.

I would probably simply strip the jacket off that NM (Romex) after it enters the box and run it through the FMC to the heater.

It isn't a bathroom with just a sink. If there is no toilet or shower you shouldn't need a partition.

The elbow on the inlet side of the cold water shutoff valve looks strange. What kind of pipe is that?

GrumpyPlumber · Aug 11, 2007

Bob, thats 3/4" copper...the Elbow I think you're asking about is a longsweep...believe it or not, they actually make longsweeps in copper that size...generally for condensate lines.

Frenchie · Aug 11, 2007

Bob NH said:
I would probably simply strip the jacket off that NM (Romex) after it enters the box and run it through the FMC to the heater.

The sheathing on the wires inside of NM isn't the same as the sheathing on wire for conduit runs.

Pick up a few feet of the correct wire, Molo.

Molo · Sep 4, 2007

GrumpyPlumber said:
Um...anybody notice a slight lack of vacuum breaker?
Also...copper right on the nipples...ouch ...got brass?
Also...I might be wrong, but I don't think I see a pan under the tank...the horror, the horror.
Also...what the heck is running off that T&P???
PLASTIC!!!
(though some states allow it...mine prohibits any plastic within 24" linear distance to the heater)
Molo...I'm happy to say you're not a competitive threat to any plumbers in your area.
(Thread title "Please make fun of this"...you got it!)

If I do those things, and add the correct wire sheathing, will I be doing all right?

What is a vacum breaker?

I'm in New York State, where can I find the code for this kind of work? Is there a specific book I can acquire?

TIA,
Molo

Furd · Sep 4, 2007

In my area you would fail inspection because of a lack of using flexible connections between the heater and house piping, the lack of seismic (earthquake) restraints on the tank and probably on the NM cable.

You can run a piece of 3/4 inch EMT (thinwall) conduit from the ceiling where the cable comes through to a 4 inch square junction box right above that molding and then transition to flexible metallic conduit (Greenfield) between the box and the heater. You may run the existing type NM cable inside the conduit down the wall but should change to stranded type THHN/THWN single conductors for the run from the J box to the heater.

A vacuum breaker is a device that will hold against pressure but will open in case of a vacuum developing within the tank. Think of a check valve installed in a line to prevent outflow of water and you have the principle. The idea is to prevent a vacuum from developing in the tank if it cools to the point of the water contracting. I've never seen one on a residential tank but I am not a plumber.

Patrick88 · Sep 4, 2007

GrumpyPlumber said:
Um...anybody notice a slight lack of vacuum breaker?
Also...copper right on the nipples...ouch ...got brass?
Also...I might be wrong, but I don't think I see a pan under the tank...the horror, the horror.
Also...what the heck is running off that T&P???
PLASTIC!!!
(though some states allow it...mine prohibits any plastic within 24" linear distance to the heater)
Molo...I'm happy to say you're not a competitive threat to any plumbers in your area.
(Thread title "Please make fun of this"...you got it!)

Not all states make you use a vacuum breaker. I believe New Hampshire dropped or is dropping them.
the plastic off the T&P is found at all home cheap O's (a.k.a. H D) and bLowes so most none plumbers think thats the norm because the "Pro's" at these places say so.

If you cant install a water heater in a bath room what about a point of use on? It is a water heart right? any ways good luck.

I down loaded the Mass code from Mass.gov and did some fancy looking to find it, so i'm sure NY has it also because the plumbing code is law and should be available for everybody

Chris75 · Sep 4, 2007

I don't see the problem with the romex, Is this residential? I just don't see anything happening to that wire where it is located... The only thing I don't see is a disconnect for the water heater... not sure if the panel is within sight....

hj · Sep 4, 2007

heater

Vacuum breaker? I haven't installed a vacuum breaker on ANY water heater in 55 years. Sliding a section of Greenfield flex over the romex will be adequate, but unprotected romex is usually not permitted on any water heater, commercial or residential.

Chris75 · Sep 4, 2007

hj said:
, but unprotected romex is usually not permitted on any water heater, commercial or residential.

Have a code article on that? or is that what your used to seeing?

MACPLUMB · Sep 4, 2007

Water Heater

Don't pay any attion to what these guy's are osting about electric
that romex was appoved medod when it was installed!! and whould be grandfathered in even if the code changed in your area, people need to remember when quting something about working in anthor state that the codes may be differant???
the place to check on electric is the "N. E. C." national electric code,
as far as water heater goe's it's O.K. the nipples on top are dielectric which means they will cause corrsion between copper pipes and the connections!!
the vent hole in wall was for old style GAS FLOOR HEATER you want to plug that to prevent heat loss in the winter!!
you do need to change out T & P drain pipe, most places will let you run into drain pan if you have 1" drain running outside!!
you do not want running under floor as stated above so it can be seenalso you don't want water running under floor as could cause dry rot to flooring and joists,
you probaly need a thermal expansion tank installed on cold water pipe

the peration should be O.K. but you want to make sure it's easy to remove so wtr/htr can be serviced

JERRYMAC MASTERPLUMBER & MASTER ELECTRICIAN

MACPLUMB · Sep 4, 2007

By The Way I Have A P.h.d. In Water Heaterolgy, That Water Heater
Is Made By State Inds. In Ashford, Tenn,

Macplumb

Mike Swearingen · Sep 4, 2007

Molo,
That wire IS 10/2+g isn't it?

hj · Sep 5, 2007

romex

Have a code article on that? or is that what your used to seeing?

It is what the inspectors in ALL the cities around here REQUIRE. Romex in "free fall" is not protected from damage.

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