Same Pump Different Day

Hello,

I cant seem to build pressure in the shallow well I have been struggling with for the last couple of weekends. Initially the problem was that I lost prime. I found a hairline crack on the vacuum side of the check valve and replaced that.

I have a 31 foot deep well with a 3' gauze point in a 3 1/2 foot square well pit with a 1 1/4 pipe. The static water level is 20'. I use a Flint and Walling CPH05 1 1/2 110v pump with a 1 1/4 split coupler attached via closed 1 1/4 coupler. Just before that on the vacuum side, I have an 1 1/4 check valve.

On the pressure side I have incorporated a 1" ball valve to shut off the water to the cottage. I have also included a 1" tee on the pressure side to attach a pitcher pump to pull the water through the pump. I have a bladder tank in the house approx 12' horizontally from the well pit where the pump is. It is set to 28 psi, 2 lbs below the 30 psi cut in on the pressure switch.

From the pitcher pump it is approx 22' to the static water level. I can pull the water through the check and pump and it comes out the pitcher pump nozzle. It is a pretty stiff pumping action. I turned on the pump while I was hand pumping and while the water came out it did not come out fast. I unplugged the pump. Disconnected the pitcher pump. The ball valve to the cottage and bladder tank is closed. I capped off the pitcher pump pipe and plugged in the pump. It showed 30 psi on the gauge but would climb no higher.

After several minutes the pump head began to get hotter. I could still leave my hand on it but it was getting hotter.

Am I sucking air on the vacuum side somewhere? I suspect the split coupler. One guy told me that I have to use two pipe wrenches pulling against each other to get a proper seal. I used one pipe wrench and tunked it with a two pound hammer. Maybe I should replace the coupler.

Could the jet be plugged in the ejector?

So, thats my situation. Sorry it is so long winded. Would offer to buy a coffee and donut to the maven that could help me solve this ongoing mystery.

Thanks!

Kingfisher

You didn't describe your piping in very good detail. The best thing I can tell you is to move the check valve as close to the well as you can. Next, get rid of every fitting you possibly can including the dresser coupling (I think that's what your describing, as I don't know what a split coupling is) and anything else that isn't absolutely needed. You might want to start from scratch.

With a water level only 5 foot above the maximum the pump can lift, air leaks are a serious problem.

bob...

Thanks for your reply!

The split couplings are actually 1 1/4 unions. From the vacuum side of the pump I have:

1 1/4 closed coupler (short and stubby threaded both ends)

1 1/4 union

1 1/4 closed coupler

1 1/4 check valve

1 1/4 x 2 galv pipe

1 1/4 x 90 degree elbow (taking it from horizontal to vertical

1 1/4 x 3 galv pipe

1 1/4 x 45 elbow (to bring into alignment with with well pipe)

1 1/4 x 3 galv pipe

1 1/4 x 45 elbow to well head.

These are all of the connections to the well head. Basically, the the pump sits horizontally on a diagonal . The well head is about 8" from one of the corners in the well pit.

I will move the check as you advise as close to the well head as possible and try to remove as many connections as I can on the vacuum side.

Thanks again!

Kingfisher

Unions on a suction line are a bad idea. Galvanized is a bad idea. So are more threaded fittings than the absolute minimum needed (set the pump up on something instead of elbows going everywhere to a pump or the ground etc.) and straighten out the plumbing as much as possible.

I suggest PE pipe and insert fittings with two hose clamps OR sch 40 PVC instead of all the els nipples and unions (that are not needed at all) with threaded connections etc..

Bob doesn't mean the check should be moved like 6", he meant numerous feet.

Yup, and PVC would be another choice, but not galvanized. E-gads, we quit using that pipe in the 60's.

bob...