Reply With QuoteSingle wire or 3 wire cable, and what is the length and ambient temperature?
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table or chart for AWG
Anyone has a link for a chart for how many amps each AWG can handle in both Aluminum and copper? i am looking for something that can handle 60amp, 100amp, and 200amp
thanks
wire
Single wire or 3 wire cable, and what is the length and ambient temperature?
Also, what is it being used for? A service gets sized quite differently from a branch circuit. As does an A/C or motor.
There is NO blanket chart such as as you ask. It would be impossible and inaccurate.
well i hired a contractor to run a 200amp and a 100amp into my 2 family house.
and from what i can tell he is running a #4AWG alum wire for the 100amp main panel from the meter. I thought that wire is only rated for 60amp? The run is only like 4 feet from the meters to the 2 main panels. I just want to make sure he is running the correct wire and i wont have a problem when i start to pull 80 - 90 amps out of that panel because HVAC systems are going in next week. I live in NJ just out side of Manhattan.
Last edited by hids2000; 07-27-2007 at 05:13 AM.
If it is being inspected like it should be the inspector will not pass it if it does not meet code.
yes, the work will be inspected. It is more for my own personal info. If the contractor used a wire that is not up to code I would like to get that fixed while he is still here and i didn't give him the final payment yet. God knows if he will come back once he get all the money.
This is what I can read from the side of the cable.
(UL) 2 CDR AWG 2-1 CDR AWG 4 COMPACT ALUMAFLEX TYPE XHHW-2 CDRS 600 VOLTS (TM) AA8176
Last edited by hids2000; 07-27-2007 at 05:31 AM.
Why did you hire an electrician in the first place?Originally Posted by hids2000
Do you always check out the doctors you go to?
well this contractor had good references. So far his guys work is nice and clean. Maybe one of his worker forgot that I have a 100amp panel? Thanks for looking out. I will ask them when they come back today if that wire is in fact a #4 if it is they got to change it out. Also the owner came to tell me how much it would cost $2000 for upgrading the 2 panels, but i have not seen him since. His workers came the other day and did all the work. I guess next time I hire someone it will be an owner who does the work him self.
Last edited by hids2000; 07-27-2007 at 05:49 AM.
??
I even check out my car's mechanic....
Matt
Semi-professional plumbing designer
Enjoying life in SW Florida
Listen I am not trying to razz you or anything like that but you hired an electrician and then you start questioning his ability and knowledge.
Not only is the electrician making the installation but an inspector is going to look at his work to see if it is done correctly.
Now you and start questioning the ability of the electrician and his methods of installation without even giving the inspector a chance to look at the compliance of his work
You seem to think that the Service Cable is two small for what ever reason and it is obvious that you don’t understand what size cable is installed.
Look at the Table I posted and you can see that a #2 aluminum conductor is rated at 100 amps for a Service Cable.
The numbers on the cable that you posted are as follows:This is (“2 CDR AWG 2”) Two cords of #2 American Wire Gauge and (“1 CDR AWG 4”) One cord #4 American Wire Gauge and these cords are compact alumaflex type xhhw-2 rated at 600 volts. This is the correct size cable. If you are addressing the #4 cord in this cable you have to go to 220.61 to learn how to size the smaller grounded (neutral) conductor.
Leave the electrician alone and let the inspector be the one to point out any violations as this cable is the correct size for a 100 amp panel.
If you question any aspect of the work ethics of the electrician get him off your job just as you would a doctor that you didn’t trust.
thanks for breaking the wire size for me. it is just i had bad experience with contractors before. in our old house the guy did the work and the inspector failed him. (by than i already paid him) i kept on calling and calling and each time he said he would come back to fix the problem. i took days off from work waiting for him and he never came. at the end i had to get someone else to correct the first guy's problem and file small claim case to get some of the money back. I got some money back, but the amount of time off from work just made me want to double check before i hand the check over. I am i just got 1 bad apple but i am just trying to protect my self and learn from my mistake.
My dear Friend
I have been doing electrical contracting for more than 37 years. I never get paid until the inspection has been made and on final the punch list is complete.
It is only good business to pay for the rough-in after the rough-in inspection and let this be no more than 60% of the total bid. On the final pay no monies until after the power is on and the system has been tested (punched out) at which time the remaining 40% is paid.
If the contractor, no matter which trade, will not accept these terms then keep shopping until someone will accept these terms. The true professional will accept these terms as this is a boiler plate scenario of payment terms.
Never for any reason pay any monies before any work is complete. It is acceptable to pay for material up front but never pay for labor until labor has been received. When I start a new job my employer will not give me a weeks pay up front, will yours?
thanks for this info. I will from now on hold off the final payment till inspection is done.
I must comment. JW, this is not a slam to your or your practices, it is simply my opinon.
While JW's payment schedule WAS common and typical practice for many guys, myself included for the most part, it is now not nearly as common. There are FAR more unscrupulous clients than there used to be. It is becoming just as common for a contractor to get screwed as it is for a contractor to run away with a customer's money.
I am very lucky that most of my customer base is know to me or the generals I deal with, so there is a trust there. But I DO NOT hold the whole 40% 'till the final inspection any more. I realized what a foolish move this was. I thought I was being a real upstanding guy by doing this but I soon found out this is NOT smart.
I now require a deposit before work even starts. I require approximately 60% paid up on rough inspection. Another 30% on finish, and sometimes I get part of that before final work starts and the rest at work completion. THEN, after final inspection I get the last 10%. Ten percent is typically more than enough to make sure anyone comes back to fix any issues, and it is not enough to keep me from going broke if the customer stiffs me or is being unrealistically/unfairly demanding with final punch items. For example, by this I mean a customer telling me they will not pay me the last payment because of a situation that was totally out of my control and not my responsibility. It DOES happen.
Pete
I do agree with your post in the way you draw your payments. I was just posting a boiler plate type of payment plan.
I have been stuck many times on work done for a homeowner.
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