(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Fastening Wire In Walls

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member molo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    cold new york
    Posts
    840

    Default Fastening Wire In Walls

    On securing wire inside walls... I have experimented with a cold wire and an open wall cavity. It seems that a stapled wire can't escape from a nail or screw, where a wire free in the wall cavity does. Why is it code to staple?

    TIA,
    Molo
    "Any American who is prepared to run for President should automatically, by definition, be disqualified from ever doing so."
    Gore Vidal.

  2. #2
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    2,522

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by molo
    On securing wire inside walls... I have experimented with a cold wire and an open wall cavity. It seems that a stapled wire can't escape from a nail or screw, where a wire free in the wall cavity does. Why is it code to staple?

    TIA,
    Molo
    334.30 Securing and Supporting.
    Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers,

  3. #3
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY and Fire Island, NY
    Posts
    1,244

    Default

    You wire shouldn't be fastened close enough to the surface to ever catch a nail or a screw. If it is, it should be covered with a nail guard.

    Off the top of my head... if it isn't fastened, work on a connection at the box can jiggle the cable, inside the cavity. NM might rub against a nail, screw, or other sharp object. BX might come to rest against a copper pipe, and start corroding. Or, the cable could just get moved closer to the surface, where a nail might hit it later.

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member molo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    cold new york
    Posts
    840

    Default

    OK, Let me ask this, what ave. homeowner is going to know enough not to grab a 2 3/8" + screw and go to town hanging some heavy piece of art. Any screw over that length that wanders through the stud will penetrate a tightly secured non-metallic cable. This thread originates from a genuine concern about puncturin cable inside the wall cavity.
    Last edited by molo; 07-25-2007 at 06:19 AM.
    "Any American who is prepared to run for President should automatically, by definition, be disqualified from ever doing so."
    Gore Vidal.

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member BrianJohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    151

    Default

    Fastening cable, prevents damage to the cable when hanging drywall this also simplifies hanging drywall as we know from expierence drywall hangers will cut any cables in their way.

  6. #6
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    9,001

    Default

    Our walls are full of pipes and wires. Nail plates provide some protection as they pass through the studs. They do not protect cables and pipes which rise vertically between or next to studs. Careful and proper procedures will minimize damage, but nothing will ever completely prevent it.

    Around here, it does not freeze, so water pipes are routinely placed in outide walls. I don't remember any project where the stucco people DIDN'T put a nail or screw through the sheathing into a copper pipe!

    At home, due diligence on our part requires very careful testing before driving screws or nails. I start with a stud finder, but then always probe with a scratch awl to exactly find the edges of studs. If I can't drive a screw in straight, then I will have to accept the possible consequences.

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member CHH's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    225

    Default

    That reminds me of the DIY hanging a cabinet in the bathroom of a new home. He carefully located the stud and then drove the screw. The next moves were shutting off the water and calling a plumber since he had hit a water supply line to an upstairs bath.

    The stud finder had indicated on the copper pipe and the guy was a careful enough worker that the screw was in the exact center of the tube. The guy did precise work, he just didn't know enough to realize that he had located a "stud" that wasn't a stud.

    Missing a stud is easy enough. I worked on a framing crew one summer while in college so I try to think about where the studs should be and go from there. What tricks do other folks use?

  8. #8
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    2,522

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CHH
    What tricks do other folks use?
    what I do is

    grab a 2 3/8" + screw and go to town hanging some heavy piece of art.

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member molo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    cold new york
    Posts
    840

    Default

    LOL JW, You'd be surprised, well...... maybe you wouldn't.
    "Any American who is prepared to run for President should automatically, by definition, be disqualified from ever doing so."
    Gore Vidal.

  10. #10
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    Molo, I've been asking the same question for years. I even ran some tests with nail guns and power screwdrivers to see what would happen, and in every case the unsecured cable moved out of the way of the fastener being driven, and the secured cable was damaged. Duh.

    The approved methods of securing a cable when using steel studs leave the cable pretty loose, it seems to me, so there's nothing sacred about making it absolutely immobile.

    Securing the cable also makes it a bitch to alter the installation after the walls are closed up.

    However, there are provisions in the code relieving you of the requirement to secure a cable if the cable is fished, so that suggests a strategy...

  11. #11

    Default

    is there a code for the distance between 2 cable staples? running the cable vertically on the side of a 2x4?
    I know I have to put the first staple within 8 inches of a plastic box, or 12 inches of a metal box, but what about between the first staple and the top of the ceiling?

    Assume the ceiling is 8ft in height.
    The plastic outlet box is 12 inches off of the floor. staple #1 is 8 inches higher.
    so when does staple #2, #3 and etc come into play?

  12. #12
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    2,522

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hids2000
    is there a code for the distance between 2 cable staples? running the cable vertically on the side of a 2x4?
    I know I have to put the first staple within 8 inches of a plastic box, or 12 inches of a metal box, but what about between the first staple and the top of the ceiling?

    Assume the ceiling is 8ft in height.
    The plastic outlet box is 12 inches off of the floor. staple #1 is 8 inches higher.
    so when does staple #2, #3 and etc come into play?

    334.30 Securing and Supporting.
    Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every outlet box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting. Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge.
    Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within the raceway.

  13. #13

    Default

    great! just the info i need.
    thanks.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •