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They are reall tough to remove without taking out the clip.
Kinda like a snowballs chance in hell!
Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing
I had several last year where ice removed the cartridge without taking out the clip.
It wasn't pretty!![]()
I have seen a couple where the customer removed the cartridge without taking the clip out. It very nicely removes the front of the faucet body also. They had used the tap and wood peg method to jack it out.
Last edited by hj; 12-26-2008 at 07:50 AM.
My Moen shower/tub valve started leaking quite badly in the past 2 days
I did a quick search & found this forum
There is another forum I use - selfhelpforum, but it didn't have as much info as here. I like to find out what I need to do before replacing something. So the instructions here allowed me to pull the old valve & bring it with me to buy the replacement. The old one was stuck a bit, but soon slid out
The instructions with the replacement valve did have decent instructions.
I think the only thing I could add would be to note which side is hot & cold with the old valve installed before removing it. I've been in some houses that for whatever reason the hot & cold were reversed
Also to attach a tube & flush out the lines before installing the new valve
The other thing that I did not know is that without the cold supply on it would not work right? I thought I did something wrong, took it apart - 2x checked. Put it back together - same thing. Re-installed the old valve - same thing. Flushed out the line again, re-installed the new valve. Then started thinking....turned both shut-off valves on
Working great - no more leaks
It's amazing that even a small drip can waste 4-5 gallons a day of water
I have a new steam shower I'll be working on later this year
So I may be back
Thanks for the help
Last edited by Scuba_Dave; 11-22-2009 at 03:38 PM.
Ok i just scraped enough money to remodel my master bathroom. I gut the thing last year, and have not done anything since then. So I just finished installing new shower pan, and walls, and then I go to put new handle on my moen faucet, and It would not do anything, I could not turn it or pull it, or push it.
So I go to home depot, and they sell me a single handle replacement cartridge, Says it easy to do. I get home, read instructions and go to pull out cartridge, and nothing, So I pull even harder, and I pull the guts of the of cartridge out, but not the brass sleeve. I went back to store bought a Cartridge puller, but it is the type that screws into the screw hole that the shower handle screws into,(which is the guts) So this does absolutly no good, I tried to spin it with the brass tabs, and they both broke off. So I am stuck with water off, and new shower walls all screwed and liquid nailed into place, what are my options now? Does anyone think the other "T" style puller may work? I am so screwed if i cant get this all figured out.
Here is the puller I bought, and did not work. (It just pulled the guts out)
Do you think I have a chance with one of these?
one
two
three
Last edited by Terry; 03-12-2011 at 11:27 PM.
I got the "T" style wrench, and got it in place, it broke the little knob off the end of it. I ended up cutting a hole big enough aound valve to use a mini pipe cutter and cut the 2 water lines and shower line. I then bought a new moen shower package which came with a posi temp rough in. I called around to different plumbing supply houses, and was just about same price for a whole new kit (rough in, shower head, shoer arm, knob & lever, and new plate, I boght a repair plate (which is bigger) to cover where I had to cut hole bigger, But I sweat all th ecopper on rough in then made the connections to the water lines and shower with sharkbite fittings. That way i had no need to put a flame behind wall. The sharkbite fittings are so neat. check them out.
They are like chinese handcuffs. check them out here:
Last edited by Terry; 03-12-2011 at 11:16 PM.
So you couldn't get the replacement cartridge out
So you turn around & install the same Mfg's valve?
Think maybe another problem in the future when the cartridge wears out again?
DIY Handyman (not 4 hire)
I have enough to do to my own house
I did install another moen faucet, I figured the last one lasted since 1978 when the house was built. I can only hope that the new one last 30 years.
I more than likely wont be living here, and it will be the next owners problem,,,,lol But now my main bathroom is having faucet problems and its the same moen faucet, however I am only having problems with the hot water not wanting to have any pressure. The cold has alotof pressure, and this just started yesterday. Coulod the cartrige just be clogged on hot water side? Hot works full blast in new shower and in sinks. Will check back, just ranting and raving.....lol
And if you had called a competent plumber he would probably have extracted the old cartridge in a matter of minutes. Then you would not have had to buy a new valve, and Sharkbites, Then spend the time to install it. If you had not used Sharkbites you might not have had to make the opening larger. This might have been a case of, "I am going to do it myself if it kills me, or takes all week. And quit hollering that you are thirsty. I will turn the water back on when I am good and ready."
I highly doubt it. The pressure balancing spool is stuck, not allowing the pressure to balance out between hot and cold.
To Fix:
For a positemp replace the cartridge
For the moentrol, remove the balancing spool located to the right side of the catridge (about 1" diametre flat screw type). The spool should ossilate back and forth very smooyhly when you shake it like salt shaker. Use silicone grease . If the grease does not work, replace the spool with a new one
For a Positemp you can also tap the cartridge on the floor until you can feel the spool sliding back and forth.
A way to remove the moen no. 1225 cartridge jacket is go to Sears and buy a #5 Screw Extractor. This will cost you about $3.59 plus tax. Before you head to Sears, spray some vinegar and water or some CLR inside and around the cartridge jacket. This will soften the years of calcium bond that has been created. When you return, tap the screw extractor into the hole (gently) just enough for it to bite a little, then take a rachet with a drive to the end of the screw extractor and twist the jacket loose. (This is a much quicker method than the dowel, tap and thread method mentioned.) It only takes about 15 minutes to pop out the jacket and then insert the new cartridge. Make sure you use some water grease (not pertroleum grease) on the new gasket. Slide it in and then make sure you pop the clip in. You might have to test it to make sure you have hot on the left and cold on the right. If not, turn off the water, take out the clip again and twist it around inside then put the clip back in.
You should be good to go!
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Last edited by Terry; 08-10-2009 at 12:29 AM.
When the inner stem part comes out, leaving the core behind, you use the special t shaped tool with the spring loaded pin. As described in someone else's posts, it either works or is stuck in the core. I usually can get it out by rotating before pulling on the t handle. When I pull and can't get it to budge, I have developed a trick. I use a tool called a a tie rod or ball joint removal tool found in auto part stores. It is a rod with a two tine fork at the end that has wedge shaped tines. I fill most of the space from the tee to the body of the valve with open end wrenches. I slide the tool in and tap it down to spread the wrenches apart thereby pulling on the core
Paul zelskid @hotmail.com
http://www.autopart.com/tools/help/c...s/steering.pdf
Ball joint removal tool
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