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Thread: Moen Shower Cartridge Removal Tool

  1. #46
    DIY Junior Member im5150too's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'll try checking that too, but the old cartridge was in pretty good shape...came out in one piece.

  2. #47
    DIY Junior Member chatemjr's Avatar
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    Default Easy removal of cartridge

    Im a non-pro so was tackling the cartridge removal with some novice trial and error...

    - I did remove the clip...
    - Broke the cartridge tabs after trying to turn it 45 degrees clockwise with the dinky plastic removal tool
    - Unfortunately, the core post had already been broken off (was reason for repair), so no tap and die solutions possible with MOEN removal tool.
    - So.... I drilled a small hole throught one of the broken plastic tabs till I hit the metal cylinder within
    - Used a thin screw through same hole, when it hit the metal cylinder it actually pulled plastic cylinder portion out ~ 3/4"! Enough to get pliers on to complete the job.

    Quite by accident but no special tools necessary! Picture below (note I had drilled 2 holes in case I needed another screw which I didn"t).
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by chatemjr; 03-14-2011 at 03:20 PM. Reason: clean up sentences

  3. #48
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    The problem with PosiTemp valves is that the cartridge sits into "notches" and in order to "rotate it" it also has to come out a bit first.

  4. #49
    DIY Junior Member keastman's Avatar
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    Here's an extraction method for broken moen cores that I haven't seen posted yet although similar to others. Perhaps it will help a homeowner out. I tried to remove the shower valve today in a condo we bought as a rental. I used the metal valve extractor with the big nut that turns. It seemed like it would work, then the hole front of the plastic cartridge popped off with the stem, leaving just the plastic core. Closet hardware store was 10 miles so I bought a few things to try to get it out of there. They had no 5/8" taps, only 1/2 and smaller so I bought a set of internal pipe wrenches, a 5/8" bolt, and 4"x3/8" glavanized nipple with 3/8" end cap. The wrenches didn't work, the 5/8" bolt wasn't wide enough to engage the core (guess a 5/8" tap is wider). I ended up putting the cap on the iron pipe and screwing it in to the core until it bottomed out, then put a block of wood on each side of the valve and tiles. Next I levered it out with two small stanley wrecking bars. I suppose two straight claw hammers would have work just as well. The wood protected the tiles and provided a firm backing for the bars.

    Fortunately, it seems like the replacement cartridges have been re-engineered with out the "O" ring on the deep end and the rubber seals are smaller. Perhaps that will make future cartridge pulling easier.

  5. #50
    DIY Junior Member Louie619's Avatar
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    The tool with the spring-loaded pin should be avoided---when it is locked in place, you are screwed !
    The 1/2 inch tap with short dowel works beautifully !!
    We always replace with the plastic Moen cartridge.

    The screw in Moen tool will occasionally remove the cartridge, and if not will pull the innards out so you can use the tap !!


    We learned some of these things the hard way--I was trying to fix a shower in a 20-unit apt complex, with all units' water off.
    Some of the Moen valves have small shutoff valves right on the Moen body itself to isolate the body for removal of the cartridge. Sounds great but these are always corroded / rusted shut, and will not work--the replacement parts are ridiculously expensive, therefore we shut all the water down.
    Last edited by Louie619; 05-03-2011 at 08:44 AM.

  6. #51
    Questions from readers Guest's Avatar
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    Dear Representative,

    The requirement to use Facebook to log into your site is ridiculous. On top of that it appears you do not address how relevant or appropriate the postings are. When someone asks a plumber what tool to use to remove a Moen faucet cartridge, he or she does not start with taps and bolts and Visegrips. If it won't come out by simply pulling on the stem, this is a picture of the tool you use. I borrowed one from a plumbing supply store.

    The handle side has a screw in the center that fits the stem. After applying WD40, the cartridge can then be rotated in it's housing. If the cartridge will not come out as a whole the stem can be pulled out. Once out, the ferrule is slipped over the pin in the shaft causing it to retract. The shaft is then inserted into the now empty stem area, the pin pops out and can be rotated back and forth until it locks in place in the cartridge housing. Continue to rotate the tool and the cartridge until it comes out. Use lots of lubricant and CLR to break up the corrosion.

    Al Schafer, handyman
    Manitou Harbor Services
    Tonka Bay, Minnesota

    Last edited by Terry; 06-10-2011 at 01:20 PM.

  7. #52
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Al from Tonka Bay, Minnesota

    I like this picture better. It was posted two pages back. Did you read any of the other pages?

    And you can sign up with username and password, or you can use your Facebook account. It's easy for most people. Adding new features is considered a "good" thing.

    Last edited by Terry; 06-10-2011 at 05:35 PM.

  8. #53
    DIY Member TipsMcStagger's Avatar
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    For once something went off without a hitch. My second shower has a Moen Chateau that was leaking badly. It appears to be original to the home, so it's getting close to 30 years old (1984). I bought both a 1200 and 1225 cartridge, expecting to have a stuck brass cartridge. I figured once I had it apart, I'd decide whether to replace it with another brass cartridge (1200) or a plastic cartridge (1225). I even had a #6 screw extractor at the ready.

    One I got started, I felt even more confident I'd end up pulling the cartridge "guts" out of the sleeve, requiring the use to the #6 extractor. The retaining clip was stuck well enough that I needed to spray it with Lime A Way (the night prior) and pry it out with an awl. Also the "sleeve" that the escutcheon slides over took quite a bit of coercing (and Lime A Way) to remove. In other words, this had not been apart in a long time (if ever) and was well corroded.

    I had a Danco Moen type cartridge removal tool. I made sure to twist the cartridge left to right several times before attempting to remove the cartridge. I was surprised to see that the cartridge appeared to be plastic. I was worried the "ears" would snap off while trying to twist it. But, the cartridge broke free and twisted without too much fuss. From there, I used the extractor tool and the cartridge came right out! I stared at the old and new cartridge for a few minutes trying to convince myself that I'd actually managed to extract the entire cartridge, leaving no sleeve behind.

    Either this was one of the first Moen Chateau's to use a plastic cartridge or it had been replaced previously. I installed the new 1225 (plastic) cartridge and all is well!

    Finally, a repair that was easier than anticipated. Thanks for all of the good tips. Be sure to rotate before you pull!

    Tipsy
    Last edited by TipsMcStagger; 03-18-2013 at 09:21 AM.

  9. #54
    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    Sometimes one puller will work where another won't, but for non-Posi-temp cartridges I think the ONA puller is best. It gives a couple approaches depending on the situation.

  10. #55
    DIY Junior Member greekguy7's Avatar
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    Default Moen Cartridge core: Easy-Out or 1/2" Tap Method??

    When trying to replace an ancient Moen 1200 brass/chrome cartridge and the guts come out only leaving you the core behind.... you prefer using a #6 easy out, or the 1/2" tap method?

    When using the 1/2" tap method, do you drop a dowel in the faucet body to push out the old moen core or just a stack of washers or socket placed against the head of the bolt?

    I do know they make a core puller that locks into place, but that's always a last option.

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