We always use 1-1/4" standard galvanized steel pipe in 5' joints (with standard pipe threads) when hand-driving a well. We typically put down "3 joints and a point". The longer the point the better in my opinion (of 3', 4' or 5' choices).
A shallow well with a surface shallow well pump should have no more than 25' between the end of the point and the pump. Use a check valve on the suction side of the pump to hold the prime since you won't have a foot valve.
We use a heavy-duty Schedule 80 black iron coupling tightened on as tight as we can get it to drive with. The Schedule 80 coupling is then removed, then we wrap about 3-4 flat turns of teflon tape clockwise only on the male threads of the pipe as the threaded end faces you and tighten a standard galvanized coupling on as tight as we can get it. You will need a back-up wrench to hold the pipe as you tighten the couplings and additional joints on.
After we get the 3 joints and the point driven, we then use a pitcher pump to hand pump off the sand out of the well until it runs fairly clean before hooking it up to the electric pump. I use 1-1/4" PVC white plastic from a plugged galvanized T off of the top of the last pipe joint to the pump.
If you need to know how to prime a pump, I'll be glad to go into that for you, too.
Do not install a well within 100' of any part of a septic system BTW.
I've helped drive enough wells in my day for myself and friends that I know that I won't do it any more (aged out). LOL