New Pressure Switch?

Last week noted that the water pressure in the house was not consistent, would lose pressure after ~10min. of running water (shower, etc). Plumber noted it was not a plumbing issue; had well company come out and they determined it was the pressue tank that needed replacing. Couldn't afford their prices so I did it myself. Just finished installing new tank w/ new values. Water pressure switch has just been replaced ~6mos ago so I did not replace that. I'm getting pressure according to pressure guage (~45psi, well is over 500ft.) , but do not hear the pressure switch clicking off/on at any time. Really appreciate any advice, suggestions, instructions... pretty much in dire straits right now.
Many thanks,
Penni

Is there any water pressure at ll in the house now?

I know its pretty basic, but are you sure there isn't a closed valve between the pressure tank and the house?

Nope..no pressure at all right now. I just turned the spigot on the pump valve all the way open. I turned the bathroom faucets and tub on (furthest away from the pump) and they worked. Went down to check the pressure and it dropped to <30psi. Came back and checked the faucets/tub and there was very little water coming out of them.
Penni

Also, just turned the outside faucet on: water comes out, pressure reduces, and no clicking sounds coming from switch at all.

You mentioned in the firs post that the pressure gauge was showing 45psi. Is that right? If so, the pressure switch must have run the pump at least once. Did you do anyting else between when it ran and when it didn't?

It initially showed 45psi after turning the well and pump back on at the breaker and switch, took a bit for it to get there. Then I just turned the water on (house, outside) and watched the guage plummet. The well is apparently doing the work of the pump/switch. The switch is not even coming on (making noise, etc).

Hard to see what could happen between the steps you mention.

If your switch is like mine (Square D 9013FSG), it closes (turns the pump on) regardless of whether or not the electricity is on. The pump doesn't run of course, but the closing of the switch seems to be triggered mechanically by the pressure diaphragm. The noise it makes when closing is not nearly as loud as the"snap" when it opens though. Have you taken the cover off to see if the contacts are open or closed? You can do this with the breaker off. If they are closed, it would point more to a problem with the pump (or maybe a loose wire going to the pump. If the switch is from Square D, you can find a manual on their web site.

Good Luck

I have that exact same switch. I've modified the cut-out pressure (increased and decreased it) to see if that would make any difference. Well it did to a point. I am now back at my original problem: I have pressure for a very short while, it then decreases to where there is practically no water flow at all. Well at least I have a new tank, apparently one I didn't need to begin with. If you can guide me with any switch adjustment, as that seems to be the case, I'd greatly appreciate it. I will also check Square D's site.

Ok..purchased a new switch just in case. Haven't installed it yet, but will post the results. Again, any suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.
Penni

I think that a key point is unreported so far. Does your pump actually stop. You see pressure and open valves and wait for a click in the control. If the pump has never turned off there will be no "click". It just keeps running. You really need to tell us exactly what conditions exist and what happens. You say pressure drops; does it return when you close the valves?

It may be your problem is in the well/pump part of the system.

Can you tell if the pump is running? I don't know your level of skill but measuring current in the pump will provide running current. If you don't know how to do these things, get someone that can. Being wrong or clumsy can kill you. Do you know what the pump is (manufacturer, model, HP)? Someone here may be able to use the current for diagnosis if you identify the pump. Is there a starter for the pump?

Open a valve before the pressure tank and see at what rate water is being produced by the well. A drain at the pressure tank will serve this purpose.

If you remove the cover from the pressure switch (with power off at the breaker) you can check to see if the contacts are closed. If they are not, you can use A NON-CONDUCTOR to push them closed and see if water is being produced.

The guy that installed the tank should know how to do that. There is a Schrader valve on top (tire valve). With the tank empty, the pressure should be a bit below the turn ON setting of the pressure switch.

I had a similar problem as you a while back. My problem was the water filter would clog the screen with fine sediment thus reducing pressure. Then when I turned off everything for awhile, the pressure would be normal but soon reduce to a trickle. Had to backwash the filter more frequently to solve the problem.

If you really want help, you have to describe your system better from the pump to the faucet in the bathroom. What kind of pump? What kind, brand, size of tank? What other devices do you have in your plumbing? Like softeners, inline filters etc.

Perhaps a leaking pipe between her pump and the house?
Can she hear water running back down her well when the pump is running?

ppotter said:

I have pressure for a very short while, it then decreases to where there is practically no water flow at all.

Click to expand...

Did you adjust the pressure inside the tank to the correct psi when empty, i.e. 2 psi less than your pressure switch cuton pressure?

Rancher

Wanted to follow up and thank you all for your advice. As it turns out, there was a broken wire about 40ft down in the well that had to be repaired. Basically I didn't need to replace the pressure tank at all, but it was quite a learning experience. Next repair project: the riding lawnmower.
Penni
Hillsborough, NC