The valve in your picture has such a large "thermal mass" that you would not have to disassemble it to solder the pipes in, if you apply the heat properly.
|
|
|
Moderator, feel free to delete this post. My question was covered in an existing thread. I usually do a search before posting, got lazy this time.
Installing a Moen 3570 valve.
I seem to remember from somewhere that you should remove internal parts from a tub/shower valve before putting a torch to it, but I can't figure out how the cartridge comes out. Is there an alternative to trying to find the Moen 104421 special tool?
It looks different from my other special tool
![]()
Last edited by DavidSeon; 10-12-2012 at 01:17 PM. Reason: Subject Already Covered In Existing Thread
Old Retired Computer Programmer
Obsolete and loving it
The valve in your picture has such a large "thermal mass" that you would not have to disassemble it to solder the pipes in, if you apply the heat properly.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
There is a clip at the front of the valve that pulls out from the top. Then the cartridge can be pulled out.
Got it. Just wasn't sure if I should give it a good tug or not. Thanks for the help.
Dave
Old Retired Computer Programmer
Obsolete and loving it
I have a similar problem, any plumber help is much appreciated.
my shower/tub handle broke while turning it. when i unscrewed everything, i see the cartridge white plastic eaten up and the post i believe its called ( the round metal brass bolt in the center ) of the stem broken in the handle.
so a removal tool was useless, i got a free replacement cartridge moen 1222 from homedepot, no way to tell my model, except i checked all shower/tub handles on moen website and it seems they all use 1222. the 1222 still doesnt look like my cartridge, mine has very white plastic, the house was built around 2000.
anyway i drilled 2 1/8" hole in the plastic and put in the holes self drilling screws, tried to twist the screws with a nut wrench and the screws bent and the cartridge didn't move at all, and the plastic broke, i can now see the metal and one round rubber came out.
i tried using a 1/4" self drilling screw in one of the holes but it was too close to the pipe so i stopped.
i have used vinegar. nothing.
now that the plastic broke a bit i can see the post (the round metal brass bolt in the center) which is about 1cm long, i tried to pull it with pliers, and couldnt cause i cant reach deep enought to have a good grasp.
I called a plumber mr rooter he wanted around $1000 to fix that along with 2 dripping faucets.
I cant afford that. he told me they overcharge because i called the company directly, he said i could find a self employed plumber to do it for $300, but i dont wana call someone from google.
im gona buy the lasco 13-2125 removal tool from amazon if i ever get the stem out.
now im thinking to drill the the round metal brass bolt in the center and use a tap and 1/4" bolt.
im just affraid that the metal dust and shreds will contaminate the water.
i had also water leak from the cartridge to the inside wall and into the living room downstairs the first day, until i realized after 24 hours and fixed it with tape.
it was bad, and i am now afraid of mold or termites. especially that water leaked before when i was cleaning the toilet few months back, i dont know how water leaked to living room, apparently from the floor to behind the baseboard. they make these houses in cardboard boxes ?!
do i have to tear down the dry wall to check for mold ? i have a newborn in the house and read that it can be dangerous.
around the pipe is black tape to avoid leaking inside wall.
thank you.
Last edited by kilm; 01-10-2013 at 03:58 AM.
If the wetting was a one-time thing, and not long in duration, AND it dried out, mold isn't likely a big issue. It can be if it is wet for a long time. No experience with trying to remove a Moen cartridge, so can't help. If worse comes to worse, and you have access from the rear so you don't have to tear up the tile, it might be simpler to just cut the old valve out and put in a new one.
Jim DeBruycker
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer
My efforts got the stem/core out, leaving the cartridge body behind.
I used a screw/bolt extractor tool, sized for bolts 5/8 - 7/8", itself 1/2" at the stem. It went in with a half-dozen hammer taps, and I was able to twist it out with vice-grips. It took me maybe two minutes; the tool was $10.
Bookmarks