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Thread: Why can't i use copper?

  1. #1

    Default Why can't i use copper?

    Heres the current setup.

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...mbing/tank.jpg

    I just bought a 20 gallon (just 2 of us, no sprinklers, very little washing, we use very little water) Flexcon (thanks for the heads up on lesser brands). The current tank is leaking from the valve stem and i'm sick of pumping air back into.

    Do i have to use ANY galvanized pipe or can i go 100% copper??? That is if i can get the correct fittings to work. I don't even see a dielectric union in the current setup! I plan on replacing all the current piping cause the threads look a little rusty. I did a search and couldn't come up with anything. Will also be replacing everything with ball valves (current setup has lots of gate valves that don't even turn!). Well is 60ft deep and the certificate i have says it was drilled in 1990, so the well pump is probably that old.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    You should purchase a brass tank T and attatch your copper to it.

    Where you make the transition from copper over to the galvanized use a brass fitting.

  3. #3

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    OK. I'll look @ that tonite when i get to a hardware store. I think i've looked @ them but wasn't sure. Thanks.

  4. #4

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    Steel pipe threads are rusty about an hour after installation. Might not mean anything. Copper is nice but explodes when frozen. Look into PEX or schedule 80 pvc or pvc well drop pipe for an updated hookup

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member Mr_Pike's Avatar
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    How old is the galvanized supply line running up into the house?

  6. #6

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    I think about 17 years old if they went in with the well (1990). I used copper/brass throughout. Just finishing up. Am a newbie, so this is trial and error. Biggest thing so far is that plumbers must never have clean hands? or i have more problems then i think!

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member Mr_Pike's Avatar
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    If you are doing other work as well, and want to know that it is done right, and maybe clean up the presentation a bit, I would probably change out all of that galvanized for 1" copper up until the first 3/4 T in the house.

    You could plumb that in a lot nicer than how they have it running on the floor to be honest. All depends on how much you want to spend and what you want it to look like. We would use all copper and brass, but it is considerably more expensive. Maybe a steel bushing and nipple to the pressure switch depending on what we had in the truck. You would also probably like to have some sort of master shut off that might not be in the photo.

  8. #8

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    I'm pretty much done now (it works!). I actually used a male copper fitting into the tank(probably a no no) and a female copper fitting (both 1 inch to 3/4) and ran 3/4 copper up the wall into the main plumbing. I would have loved to use 1 inch, but oh my god, the cost of that stuff is a little too pricey for me. I used brass for a few parts (pressure/pressure switch) and where it connects to the 1 inch poly. I put a new master shutoff right outside the tank with the drain screw. I ruined one ball valve when soldering (it was open) and its getting exchanged.

    A couple things i learned was have a good master plan and a good backup, along with lots of other ideas! Having a drain by the tank, WOULD be nice. Have lots of towels handy/buckets and gloves. Propane sucks. Soldering is FUN! Oh, and this plumbing stuff is harder then it looks.

  9. #9
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    Yes it is a no no because you now have dielectric action eating away at your tank / copper that will shorten the life of the tank / cause a leak.

    We don't recommend things because we feel like it, you should have used a brass tank T.

    Copper should never come in direct contact with steel or galvanized in the presence of water. Always transition with brass.

    Now you get to do it again unless you don't care about buying a new tank or repairing a leak or both, sooner that you should, your choice.
    Last edited by Cass; 07-06-2007 at 07:01 AM.

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