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Thread: Replacing a stretch of galvanized that has 3 problems

  1. #1
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Sep 2004
    New England


    I'd tear out all of the old galvanized and switch to copper; replace the valves and the faucet on the sink. I'd also consider putting in a washing machine shutoff that controls both the hot and cold in one quick lever action.

    If the joints started to leak with a little movement, they are too weak to leave around. Unscrewing the valve from the pipe may only need a bigger wrench, but then it might just break off.

    A little practice with a torch and some scrap pipe and inexpensive fittings will give you enough experience to probably do this all yourself. If you aren't comfortable, since your water will be off while doing it, you might want to consider a plumber.

    The key to getting the picture files small enough is to resize them to around 600x400 pixels - most picture software can do it, but it can be hard to find. That's plenty to view on the screen, and gets the file size small enough to upload. I think this is freeware, but a program called IFANVIEW works, too.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  2. #2

    Default Replacing a stretch of galvanized that has 3 problems

    Recently replaced my leaky washing machine with a non-leaky one. Here's the problem(s):

    From left to right along the back wall: hot and cold copper supply into left side of a silver tee, each tee has a gate valve to control supply to washing machine. Hot water handle on gate valve snapped off at the stem/threads when I tried to shut off the water at the washing machine, and is now stuck on open. Cold gate valve handle began to drip when I shut it off, so we turned the water off at the main to do the work. On right side of each tee is galvanized pipe that continues along, and where the galvanized meets the silver tee on the hot water supply, I now have a drip.

    In the middle of this stretch is a double sink, with a faucet that has a very rusty connection at the pipe (hot water handle won't budge, etc - I don't run water there often, sink used mostly for washing machine draining). Since restoring water to washing machine after install, rusty faucet connection is leaking badly (it did not leak prior, was just rusty).

    On right end of one galvanized stretch (I believe hot water), there is a rusty elbow that is now wet, and probably about to start dripping.

    1. Is there any way to remove the gate valves from the silver tees - I tried, and couldn't get it to budge, but it looks like they just thread on.
    2. Looking at the faucet connection, my guess is I won't get that to budge, either. Any tips after I remove the rust? Suggestions for a faucet for a utility sink?
    3. If I need to fully replace the stretches of pipe from the silver tees to the rusty elbow(s), should I stay with copper, move to plastic, or something else?
    Not sure of cost/effort here, but the stretches are about 68" and 65" from the left side of the tee (where copper goes in) to the elbows.

    I took photos, but they are too big to upload here. If anyone wants to see them, let me know and I can email pics. Any advice is helpful - I'd love to do this myself, but tools and knowledge are limited. Thanks all - site is great.

  3. #3

    Default photos of problem

    In case anyone is interested, here are the pics of the problems - thanks for the advice, jadanashua (I grew up in Jaffrey). I'm getting a quote tomorrow just in case, but if I undertake this effort, I'm sure I'll have more questions.
    Attached Images Attached Images     


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