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Thread: Plasterguard

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member
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    Default Plasterguard

    In remodeling my master bath, I recently had a plumber install 2 Delta universal valves in a gutted wall. I am getting ready to place cement board and then tile. My question is, do I leave on the plasterguard. If so, does the cement board butt up to the plasterguard...so all I need to do is cut a hole big enough for the valve body. Or do I need to cut a 4X4 inch square so the plasterguard is set to where the outer edge is even/flush with the tile-side of the cement board.
    I am getting mixed messages from my plumber, friends that don't know, and home improvement employees that say to pitch the plastic plasterguard piece.

    Thanks.

  2. #2

    Default

    I installed a delta univ valve in my shower last year. (w/ monitor 1700 series trim)

    I believe you should leave the plasterguard on and mount the valve such that the face of the plasterguard is flush with the finished tile face - not the cement board. So, hold up yr backer, and a tile and any other membranes you're gonna use, and then secure your valve.

    So, you have to cut a 4x4" hole in the board to accomodate the valve AND the guard. If you butt the guard on TOP of the cement board, it'll bring the valve too far out such that your handle and escutcheon will ride above the finished tile surface.

    The escutcheon on the delta trim will cover the square cutout sufficiently.

    (Remove the guard after tiling but before you mount the handle and trim. )

    I found it helpful to plan access from the other side of the plumbing wall. That made mounting and jiggering the valve depth easy once the backer and tile were up.
    Last edited by prashster; 07-02-2007 at 09:04 AM.
    (important note: I'm not a pro)

  3. #3
    Licensed Grump GrumpyPlumber's Avatar
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    Default

    Plumber will set the valve to compensate for drywall and tile...5/8" to 3/4" from the rough 2"x4" to the finished wall surface, "prashster" is right about the guard, it's to keep thinset, mastic or plaster from getting onto the valve itself.
    You shouldn't have to shim or block anything out, the plumber should have set the depth...if it's not set right it's up to him to modify it...best to call him before the drywall to be sure.
    "The biggest regrets we have in life are the chances we never took."

  4. #4
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default guard

    The plaster guard is to make sure the tile setter does not get too precise and tile right up to the valve. Leave it on until after the tile is done, then remove it to set the trim pieces.

  5. #5
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    It usually also gives enough room to perform maintenance on the thing and ensure that you can get to the screws to attach the trim pieces.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member
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    Default

    Good Stuff......thanks to everyone.....I am only doing this once so I wanted to make sure.

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