new rough in valve threaded connection or solder

hi all,
I am, a DIYer and newbie plumber, in the process of a shower remodel and purchased a Danze shower set that offers threaded or solder connection.

First, I know solder is standard for plumbers, etc. I have the itch to put all this together today vs waiting for my brother who has all the plumbing gear to solder this up next week. I am not sure about threaded and teflon vs solder, maybe I am anxious to do this today but dont want to proceed not knowing I should have done sweated the copper lines and thinking of leaks down the road behind the wall.
Anyway whats everyones take on the subject(solder vs. threaded). Mybe I already solved my question and just wait - but lets hear some feedback.

BTW.
1. on the few copper sweating plumbing projects around the home I am always nervous on valves etc that have rubber seals etc. Any tips??
2. If I do sweat the copper I will most likely route some flex copper about 15' above the slab. This maybe be my lowest point in the house so wont be able to escape from water thus bad solder joints. In the past I have wet vacuumed the line with decent results. any suggestions for this??

thanks again for this great forum for guys/gals like me...
chris

I would solder. Clean the pipe and fittings good. Don't overheat.

On most of them, you can take the cartridge out. That should preserve it from excessive heat.

thanks, looking at the instructions its pretty clear on how to remove cartridges...
My other concern is the plastic plate that needs to be flush with FINISHED wall. Currently the old drywall is removed for new drywall, kerdi ans 3x6 subway tile. I dont have an exact depth. I was thinking of finishing out shower wall up to Kerdi. Then add a service panel which will be in the toilet room behind a door, so visually its not a issue. You think this is an overkill?

thx

Creating an access panel behind a tub or shower valve is a very good idea because eventually you will need access to it for repair or replacement.
Remove cartridges and open valves to dissipate heat when soldering.
Always drain all lines where being soldered.
Heat the fittings onoly, and not the pipe.
Good Luck!
Mike

panel

You should never need a service panel for repairs, and if it is a good valve, you should never need to replace it until the bathroom is remodeled. I haven't even seen a service panel behind a shower in 55+ years, and the only ones for tubs are those installed during the 50's for access to the tub's drain pipe. Never for access to the faucet.

Most of the valves have a range. If you are unlucky, yours requires an exact placement. As long as you are within the allotted range of depth, you should be okay. Are there min/max marks on the rough-in cover? that should allow you to get it within range, if allowed.

The house where I grew up ( built in 1946)had an access panel ( I explored it because it was in the closet in a bedroom which became mine when Nana died). It was up at the valve level. Drain accessed in the basement.

Would like to have a nickel for every time a homeowner posted a question here about how to deal with that one tiny drop leaking from his newly installed shower valve. Seems no matter how many times he took it apart and put on more teflon tape, he couldn't stop the drip. The point is, you should be able to make a reliable threaded connection. BUT, if it does drip, it's a lot of work to disassemble and redo. Soldering, you will virtually always get a good joint IF you set it up right: clean and dry. It certainly is possible on the first floor to get those lines drained down.