Slow filling of toilet

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Hans L

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Hello:

I have a very slow-running refill tube in an old 'turlet' with a Flowmaster fill valve. When the water runs down into the overflow tube, it sounds more like a leaking faucet than a filling toilet, and it drives my wife nuts. I guess that there is either something wrong with the fill valve or that it is supposed to keep water running slowly. Right? If I replace the valve, and the water runs faster, do I also have to replace the fill tube (with one with a larger exit hole)?

Isn't the fact that the refill tube empties into the overflow tube intended to avoid the splashing noise of water falling on water? Otherwise, the refill tube could as well empty directly into the tank. Or ...?

Grateful for any information.

Regards,

Hans L
 

e-plumber

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You may need to install a new toilet fill valve but the problem that you described appears to be the refill tube being inserted too far into the overflow tube, it should be clipped onto the top of it or a siphon action could occur leading to the continuous annoying dripping sound.
The flapper could also be deteriorated allowing water to leak past it, the dripping sound would be the same.
 

Hans L

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Thanks for your reply. The refill tube is correctly placed, and the flapper is in remarkably good condition and does not leak. So, I'll go for the valve replacement. By the way, I also checked the main shutoff valve, and it was open all the way.

Hans L
 

Jadnashua

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You may have some sediment in the thing causing a restriction so it takes awhile to fill. Probably can be cleaned.
 

Jimbo

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If I understand you to say that the refill tube is to refill the TANK you are not understanding the toilet. The refill tube is to refill the BOWL, as all the water is siphoned out with the waste. If water is running very slowly in the refill tube, the the TANK refill flow is usually also very slow.. The solution is to repair or replace the fill valve assembly.
 

Hans L

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Thank you all. I'll take a look at the fill valve today.
 

erockybalboa

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If you've noticed a reduced flushing power of your toilet over time, I have a simple recommendation for you, something for you to check. The holes on the underside of the toilet bowl often become clogged with deposits. So what you want to use is a little handheld mirror, even a little dental mirror- although I would suggest that after you use it for this, that becomes its permanent use.

Once you detect a hole that has maybe some buildup that's preventing it from flowing properly, just cut a piece of wire coat hanger and run it up in there and clear out and obstructions that you might find. And do this all around the edge, and I think you'll see an improvement.
Slow filling toilet
 
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Hans L

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Thanks, erockybalboa, but at this time, the toilet is gone. However, a stubborn rust problem in the tank and bowl of another toilet made me, on the recommendation of a friend that I met at Home Depot when I was going to buy white porcelain paint, buy IronOut instead. We'll see how that works.

Regards,

Hans L
 

luvr29

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A faulty toilet flush tank is one of those frustrating facts of life. It eventually happens to everyone one day, often at an inconvenient moment. One of the most common faults is that the tank fills but the water keeps running. It is really annoying but take heart, it can be easily fixed. Here is how.


1. First of all, if you cannot do the repair right away, simply turn off the water supply until you can. You do not have to turn off the total water supply, just the toilet. There is usually a tap or valve nearby or under the toilet flush tank.



2. When you are ready to tackle your toilet problem lift the cover off the flush tank and pull the float rod upwards but do it gently. If the water shuts off then you may have to adjust the float position. Try doing this before attempting to change or replace the rod or anything else.


3. Start by turning off the water supply to the flush tank. Do the remainder of the repairs with the water turned off.


4. Adjust the float position by bending the rod until it is 1/2inch lower. Then turn on the water and flush the tank. The tank should now fill to about 1/2inch below the overflow pipe and your water should stop leaking. If not, then there is another cause for the problem.


5. Only half of the float should be covered by water. If it is under water more than this then it may be leaking and needs to be replaced. To remove, unscrew the float and if it has water in it replace it with a new one. Do not try and repair it. It is not worth the effort.


6. Check the washer in the inlet valve. If the water does not shut off when you pull the float rod up the washer may need replacing. To do this, remove the two pivot screws holding the arm of the float.


7. Slide out the rod and valve linkage. Remove the plunger from the valve by pulling it upward. The washer at the base of the valve shuts off water flow. Replace it with a new washer.


8. Replace everything back and test your system. Hopefully you will be flushed with success.


While doing repairs like this it is a good idea to give the system a general check for cleanliness. Toilet flush tanks usually collect a lot of slime and scum that can inhibit their function as well as create disease.


Give the tank a general clean, including working parts. To ensure easier action, you can smear grease over moving parts.


To ensure cleanliness, there are various cleanser flushes on the market which help keep both toilet flush tank and toilet bowl clean. Most are pleasantly scented and some come with germ-killing ingredients which is useful in any toilet area.


If the unit in your toilet flush tank is very old and totally worn down, you can buy a total already assembled replacement unit. There is no need to replace the flush tank and installation of the new inside unit is easy. However this is only necessary if your existing unit is in a really ghastly state.
 
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