Don't Laugh

Users who are viewing this thread

Makeitwork

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
So I'm 75% done finishing our basement. Just started working on the bath. Measured clearances in room, halls, doors for moving in one-piece fiberglass tub/shower. Got the tub home and down the stairs (by myself) when I realized I forgot to take one measurement - distance between stairs and floor overhang. Shower was 10" too tall. Rather frustrated at that point I retrieved my recip saw and cut the top 10" off the shower...then it fit down the stairs perfectly. Of course cutting it in half was not the ideal solution, but that's where I'm at. Question - since the top nailing flange is now gone I don't think it will be reasonable to finish the shower edge with greenboard and I'm now wondering how to finish the shower edge. The best idea I've come up with is to let a piece of cement board, which is fastened to the surrounding studs, overhang the top edge (cut edge) of the shower, then finish with tile and a lot of silicone. Any suggestions? Please keep the chuckling to a mild roar...
 
Last edited:

Leejosepho

DIY scratch-pad engineer
Messages
2,483
Reaction score
0
Points
36
Location
200 miles south of Little Rock
Website
www.nonameyet.org
I got mine on through and into the basement by temporarily removing the stairs.

After fastening the top edge of the surround with a cleat-spacer behind it, I would probably look for a "Z" moulding to cover and lap down over that top edge, then bring the wallboard down against it and caulk.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Many times homeowners want the one-piece shower and tub enclousures.
I find that it's rare that they can be used in a remodel.
In new construction, they are brought out to the job before the framing is complete, and before wires have been run in the walls.
For remodel, it's easier to use a standard tub or shower pan, and then put up the wall covering over the flange of the tub or pan.

One method with cultured mable, is to cut out the existing tile surround to the studs, and pull the tub.

A new tub gets set in place, and a new faucet.
Then green board on the walls,
Then panels of cultured marble are glued over the green board,
The corners and between tub and panel are caulked in with Silcone.

Using this method, it would be rare that any drywall would be needed, and as a result, no painting either.

To put is simply, more money spent on the tub and panels, and less money on things like drywall and paint.
It is a quicker job this way too.
You also have the ablilty to put a hard surface all the way to the ceiling, and if you have a window, it's easy to wrap to it.
 
Last edited:

Leejosepho

DIY scratch-pad engineer
Messages
2,483
Reaction score
0
Points
36
Location
200 miles south of Little Rock
Website
www.nonameyet.org
Terry said:
For remodel, it's easier to use a standard tub or shower pan, and then put up the wall covering over the flange of the tub or pan.

There is also the two-piece version: regular tub with mating surround.

Silly me, though, ended up dragging the one-piece into the basement and installing the two-piece in a new main-floor bathroom area that previously had no wall on one side. But, one was left-hand and the other right-hand, and the plumbing determined their logical placements.
 

Cass

Plumber
Messages
5,947
Reaction score
7
Points
0
Location
Ohio
makeitwork said:
So I'm 75% done finishing our basement. Just started working on the bath. Measured clearances in room, halls, doors for moving in one-piece fiberglass tub/shower. Got the tub home and down the stairs (by myself) when I realized I forgot to take one measurement - distance between stairs and floor overhang. Shower was 10" too tall. Rather frustrated at that point I retrieved my recip saw and cut the top 10" off the shower...then it fit down the stairs perfectly. Of course cutting it in half was not the ideal solution, but that's where I'm at. Question - since the top nailing flange is now gone I don't think it will be reasonable to finish the shower edge with greenboard and I'm now wondering how to finish the shower edge. The best idea I've come up with is to let a piece of cement board, which is fasted to the surrounding studs, overhang the top edge (cut edge) of the shower, then finish with tile and a lot of silicone. Any suggestions? Please keep the chuckling to a mild roar...

I think your idea is as good as any under the circumstances.
 

Makeitwork

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Thanks fellas. I looked at 2/3/4 piece tubs and showers, but wanted to avoid all those joints that seem to need recaulking continually and they were $100-$200 more than the bath/shower. It's been fun, lesson learned...
Great forum by the way, knowledgeable folks and active participation.
 

Master Plumber Mark

Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls
Messages
5,533
Reaction score
354
Points
83
Location
indianapolis indiana - land of the free, home of
Website
www.weilhammerplumbing.com
fiished product

in hindsight it might have been better to buy a
STERLING break down tub and shower unit...


I have never seen anyone cut one of those down
and end up with an acceptable finished product....

doing your own work, I suppose anything goes..
as long as you can make the wife happy..

but if I did that for a customer,,,,
I guarantee that I would never be able to
make the finished product look good enough..


please post a pic of the job when you are done.

I promise not to laugh...

...




 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks