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Thread: Don't Laugh

  1. #1

    Default Don't Laugh

    So I'm 75% done finishing our basement. Just started working on the bath. Measured clearances in room, halls, doors for moving in one-piece fiberglass tub/shower. Got the tub home and down the stairs (by myself) when I realized I forgot to take one measurement - distance between stairs and floor overhang. Shower was 10" too tall. Rather frustrated at that point I retrieved my recip saw and cut the top 10" off the shower...then it fit down the stairs perfectly. Of course cutting it in half was not the ideal solution, but that's where I'm at. Question - since the top nailing flange is now gone I don't think it will be reasonable to finish the shower edge with greenboard and I'm now wondering how to finish the shower edge. The best idea I've come up with is to let a piece of cement board, which is fastened to the surrounding studs, overhang the top edge (cut edge) of the shower, then finish with tile and a lot of silicone. Any suggestions? Please keep the chuckling to a mild roar...
    Last edited by makeitwork; 05-04-2007 at 09:27 PM.

  2. #2
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    I got mine on through and into the basement by temporarily removing the stairs.

    After fastening the top edge of the surround with a cleat-spacer behind it, I would probably look for a "Z" moulding to cover and lap down over that top edge, then bring the wallboard down against it and caulk.

  3. #3
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Many times homeowners want the one-piece shower and tub enclousures.
    I find that it's rare that they can be used in a remodel.
    In new construction, they are brought out to the job before the framing is complete, and before wires have been run in the walls.
    For remodel, it's easier to use a standard tub or shower pan, and then put up the wall covering over the flange of the tub or pan.

    One method with cultured mable, is to cut out the existing tile surround to the studs, and pull the tub.

    A new tub gets set in place, and a new faucet.
    Then green board on the walls,
    Then panels of cultured marble are glued over the green board,
    The corners and between tub and panel are caulked in with Silcone.

    Using this method, it would be rare that any drywall would be needed, and as a result, no painting either.

    To put is simply, more money spent on the tub and panels, and less money on things like drywall and paint.
    It is a quicker job this way too.
    You also have the ablilty to put a hard surface all the way to the ceiling, and if you have a window, it's easy to wrap to it.
    Last edited by Terry; 11-16-2010 at 07:39 PM.

  4. #4
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry
    For remodel, it's easier to use a standard tub or shower pan, and then put up the wall covering over the flange of the tub or pan.
    There is also the two-piece version: regular tub with mating surround.

    Silly me, though, ended up dragging the one-piece into the basement and installing the two-piece in a new main-floor bathroom area that previously had no wall on one side. But, one was left-hand and the other right-hand, and the plumbing determined their logical placements.

  5. #5
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by makeitwork
    So I'm 75% done finishing our basement. Just started working on the bath. Measured clearances in room, halls, doors for moving in one-piece fiberglass tub/shower. Got the tub home and down the stairs (by myself) when I realized I forgot to take one measurement - distance between stairs and floor overhang. Shower was 10" too tall. Rather frustrated at that point I retrieved my recip saw and cut the top 10" off the shower...then it fit down the stairs perfectly. Of course cutting it in half was not the ideal solution, but that's where I'm at. Question - since the top nailing flange is now gone I don't think it will be reasonable to finish the shower edge with greenboard and I'm now wondering how to finish the shower edge. The best idea I've come up with is to let a piece of cement board, which is fasted to the surrounding studs, overhang the top edge (cut edge) of the shower, then finish with tile and a lot of silicone. Any suggestions? Please keep the chuckling to a mild roar...
    I think your idea is as good as any under the circumstances.

  6. #6

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    Thanks fellas. I looked at 2/3/4 piece tubs and showers, but wanted to avoid all those joints that seem to need recaulking continually and they were $100-$200 more than the bath/shower. It's been fun, lesson learned...
    Great forum by the way, knowledgeable folks and active participation.

  7. #7
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking fiished product

    in hindsight it might have been better to buy a
    STERLING break down tub and shower unit...


    I have never seen anyone cut one of those down
    and end up with an acceptable finished product....

    doing your own work, I suppose anything goes..
    as long as you can make the wife happy..

    but if I did that for a customer,,,,
    I guarantee that I would never be able to
    make the finished product look good enough..


    please post a pic of the job when you are done.

    I promise not to laugh...

    ...





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