Is it the same pump for the past 33 years?
I recently inherited a problem, My cabin has a 146ft water well and has been working pretty good for the last 33 years I recently have been fixing up the old place and the only problem I have noticed with the well untill yesterday was that after using the water for a long period of time(like ten minutes of watering yard) it would shut off and then take a few minutes to come back on. Yesterday I was using the water and it was just fine then I had no water whatsoever, there is no pressure on the gauge, but I can hear the contol box making a buzzing sound like its turning on then off real quickly, but not building any pressure. We have been recieving a very large amount of rainfall so I don't think its out of water, but was wondering if anyone had any Ideas of where to start on problem solving. Could it be the pump, the pressure switch or what? How do I begin checking!
Is it the same pump for the past 33 years?
If that pump has been in for 33 years, you have gotten your money's worth. I would check the air in the pressure tank and install a new pressure switch and control box. Make sure you have the right power, it should be a 230 volt system. If you only have 115 volt, it will just click and buzz. If it is still clicking and buzzing, you are probably going to need a new pump.
As far as I know! It is a lake house that has not been used very much at all including the water, maybe just a few weekends a year for the last 30 if that!
Ok, here's what you do.
Watch it when you do have water, turn on the hose, watch the pressure guage, and the pressure switch (take the cover off) see if the pump starts pumping water when the switch reaches it's cuton point. Continue to watch it until you end up with no water, then tell us what happened.
I checked the air pressure in the tank and it showed about 5psi so I brought it up to 18psi because it is a 20 on and 40off system with a 30psi tank, that didn't help. this is a weekend home, that has been very rarely used over the years, which is probably part of my problem. I will try a new p. switch! thanks
The problem is, as of now I can't get any water!
When I replace pressure switch should I stick with the 20 40 or go with a bigger one? Also where is a good place to find the switch and the control box and what will information will I need when ordering?
It would still help to know if the points in the pressure switch are opening and closing when this happens or if they just stay closed.
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How can I tell if my pressure switch is bad when I hear that clicking in the control box and have the cover off should i see the points actually move? Also is my pressure tank supposed to have 18psi when my pump is not working or should I only check the air pressure when it is operating? The switch is a 20 40 and the pressure tank is a 30psi.
I've always set the pressure in the bladder when all pressure is relieved from the tank (open a faucet and let 'er run empty) and the pressure pump is unplugged so it can't come on when you relieve the pressure. Then check the bladder pressure - I have always set it to 2 lbs less than cut in pressure.
The points should open and close in the pressure switch...you should easily see them move and hear them click.
would the points still move if I had a problem the pump itself? I am sure its obvious but this is my first run in with a water well!
The points will still move with a problem with the pump, they are not connected.
The points will not move until the pressure gets high enough to open the switch points. If the points stay closed, then it should be telling the pump to run. The points could still be bad and only allowing half power to the control box. If the points are good, closed, and telling the pump to run, and the control box is still clicking and buzzing, the control box may be bad. If you replace the control box, which I always do before I pull the pump, then you need a new control box with an overload. The old control boxes had an overload but, the motor did not. Now the new control boxes do not have overloads, because the new motors have overloads built in. If you use a new style control box with an old motor, you will not have an overload. You can still get control boxes with an overload, you just have to ask for one. If you have good power, new pressure switch, new control box, and the pump still won't run, you will have to pull the pump. You could also have the control box rebuilt if you know a company that does this. The Franklin Electric station in my area is Brandon and Clark Electric. You probably have a Franklin warehouse in your area. They can rebuild and check your control box for you instead of replacing it.
When I opened my control box yesterday the black cylinder inside the box was really warm and this was right after the well quit working!