Zimmee66
Member
Hi all!
Looking for tips and cautions about cutting an 80 year old cast iron riser. I've cut lead risers before (easy!) but have not cut cast iron.
See pics for details. Riser is 2 inch XH pipe.
My questions are:
1) Will an *ordinary (rental)* pipe breaker cut XH-type cast iron or is there a special model for that?
2) Any risk of a breaker crushing or causing other problems with such corroded pipe (especially in the hands of someone who's never used one!)
3) can it be cut with a sawzall (and many blades) instead? The advantage I see with this is that because it is so rusty maybe it would be safer. There are also some possible clearance issues with a breaker (water heater in the way).
PLAN
I want to stay out of the hub/cleanout and cut about 6 inches above to leave a stub to attach PVC to. I'm hoping for been-there-done-that type advice, worried about things like the pipe shattering and chunks of CI falling into the cleanout T.
The entire run of CI is about 10 feet, plus a sanitary-T, then it converts to a 1 1/4 inch galvanized vent (just above the kitch sink trap, which is leaded into the T). My plan is to go 2" PVC all the way including a san T and then a little stub off the PVC T to connect a coupling between it and the vent. The riser only serves the sink.
Reasonable?
One last Q about CONNECTING:
I know the ideal way is probably a rubber donut in the hub after cleaning out the lead, etc. But everything I hear about that sounds like it is a real bear to fit the donut.
So, I'm going to try a coupling.
However, it sounds like the coupling I need is special BECAUSE the cast iron is XH. Is that correct?
Any advice sincerely appreciated!
jim
Looking for tips and cautions about cutting an 80 year old cast iron riser. I've cut lead risers before (easy!) but have not cut cast iron.
See pics for details. Riser is 2 inch XH pipe.
My questions are:
1) Will an *ordinary (rental)* pipe breaker cut XH-type cast iron or is there a special model for that?
2) Any risk of a breaker crushing or causing other problems with such corroded pipe (especially in the hands of someone who's never used one!)
3) can it be cut with a sawzall (and many blades) instead? The advantage I see with this is that because it is so rusty maybe it would be safer. There are also some possible clearance issues with a breaker (water heater in the way).
PLAN
I want to stay out of the hub/cleanout and cut about 6 inches above to leave a stub to attach PVC to. I'm hoping for been-there-done-that type advice, worried about things like the pipe shattering and chunks of CI falling into the cleanout T.
The entire run of CI is about 10 feet, plus a sanitary-T, then it converts to a 1 1/4 inch galvanized vent (just above the kitch sink trap, which is leaded into the T). My plan is to go 2" PVC all the way including a san T and then a little stub off the PVC T to connect a coupling between it and the vent. The riser only serves the sink.
Reasonable?
One last Q about CONNECTING:
I know the ideal way is probably a rubber donut in the hub after cleaning out the lead, etc. But everything I hear about that sounds like it is a real bear to fit the donut.
So, I'm going to try a coupling.
However, it sounds like the coupling I need is special BECAUSE the cast iron is XH. Is that correct?
Any advice sincerely appreciated!
jim