finding GPM for flow test

Speedbump · Apr 28, 2007

That one is on my shopping cart. I'm not sure how I got a 200# gauge there, it should be a 100# gauge. Maybe it was the best image I could find at the time. Anyway, that is what they look like. You can get 1/4" or 1/8", they are all 100 or 60 psi max. You will have to put in another tee after the main tee and bush the opening down to 1/4" to install the gauge.

I can't think of any images that I have that would make it easier.

bob...

Speedbump · Apr 28, 2007

This might help.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

V1rtu0s1ty · Apr 28, 2007

It does help a lot.

So, is that the online store you are recommending to me? Don't HD, Lowes, Sears or Ace Hardware sell it?

Looking at the drawing again, to the right of the pipe, you mentioned valve. Looks like valve is controllable?

Then can you post me a picture link of the valve that will be used to backpressure please?

Speedbump · Apr 28, 2007

Just for the test your doing, you can buy one just about anywhere. Most of them are cheap. The one I sell is cheap for that matter. They are mostly for us to set up a system then we don't need them anymore. If you want to depend on it for several years, don't buy mine or one from any store. Good gauges start at around $15.00. Mine is overpriced at $2.65. If I need a good gauge, I order one at a time because most people don't want to spend that much.

bob...

V1rtu0s1ty · Apr 28, 2007

oh, so that means, once I get all the readings, we don't need them anymore? Or is it really required to have one once I get the lawn sprinkler system up and running?

If we just need it for testing, I can just buy at HD or Lowes for now. Then once I'm ready, I can buy a better one like what you said.

But I had a question earlier and I think it was not addressed. You mentioned valve on the drawing. Can you please tell me how it looks like?

Speedbump · Apr 30, 2007

Sure, for what your doing any old gauge will do.

The valve you posted a picture of will work. Or you can get a gate valve which has a spoked handle and turns several times between open and closed. It might be easier to get the desired pressure with that than the quarter turn ball valve.

bob...

V1rtu0s1ty · May 2, 2007

Found a picture of gate valve using images.google.com. Which one?

or this one

And also, if you look at my earlier pictures specifically my vertical 1" copper pipe, will there be any difference in pressure if putting the new pipe closer to the lower part of the existing pipe since it will be closer to the city? The new size of pipe will be the same though.

Thanks!

Speedbump · May 2, 2007

I would go with valve #1.

I don't think the length of the pipe will make any difference.

bob...

V1rtu0s1ty · May 2, 2007

Cool! Sorry, I have so many questions.

How much should I remove from the 1" vertical pipe so I can insert the Tee?

Thanks again!

Speedbump · May 3, 2007

You would take out the same amount of copper as there is space in the tee between where both pipes will butt inside the tee.

bob...

V1rtu0s1ty · May 9, 2007

speedbump said:
I would go with valve #1.

I don't think the length of the pipe will make any difference.

bob...

I was at my basement again today. I looked at the 1" and where it leads to. The 1" pipe goes near side of the backyard. Can I just hook from there?

V1rtu0s1ty · May 9, 2007

speedbump said:
You would take out the same amount of copper as there is space in the tee between where both pipes will butt inside the tee.

bob...

Hi bob,

I'm sorry but I still couldn't visualize this out. Do you have pic?

Thanks,

ron

Speedbump · May 9, 2007

I don't have any pics I can think of. Just think of it this way. If you have a tee that has 1-1/4" between the two female inserts on the tee, you have to cut out 1-1/4" of pipe to make room for the tee. You will also have to be able to move the pipe up or down enough to put the second piece of pipe into the tee's insert. It can be inserted in the 1" pipe anywhere you can get to it.

bob...

V1rtu0s1ty · May 9, 2007

Ah, that helps a lot.

By the way, I encountered an issue when I sweated my friend's pipe on his outside faucet. The 90 degrees elbow was so close to the joist. I had an impression that I got a complete lead around the hole. Last week, he used that faucet. He found out that water was squirting from the top part of the elbow. I don't want that to happen in this project that I'll be doing. So, is it because I didn't put enough flux?

Please let me know if my steps are correct.

1. I used an emery cloth. Actually I have a metal rounded brush that I insert the copper pipe. I make sure that it's very clean.

2. I apply flux on the cleaned copper pipe and on the cleaned coupling or cleaned elbow or whatever.

3. I join the two together and twist it so flux gets spread

4. I heat it and apply lead

Speedbump · May 9, 2007

Lead???

You mean solder I hope. The big trick is to get it super clean, flux both halves. Put heat on one side and the solder on the other side. When it flows, your done.

bob...

V1rtu0s1ty · May 9, 2007

Yep, I meant solder. I found a link about your explanation.

http://www.curbly.com/alexrussell/posts/540-Discover-your-inner-plumber-how-to-solder-copper-pipe

By the way, should I use MAPP instead of my color blue?

Going back to the elbow. An elbow has two ends. I noticed that the flux I put on the other end of the elbow melts as well. Also, once I apply flux, it melts so quickly because it's very hot. This is after I worked on the first side. Should I let it cool down before I work on it again?

finding GPM for flow test

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