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Thread: Shower Valve Rough-In Question

  1. #1

    Default Shower Valve Rough-In Question


    My apologies for what may be a dumb question, but I can't seem to find a consistent answer anywhere, so I thought I'd ask the pros.

    I'm building a bathroom w/shower in the basement and am in the process of starting the plumbing rough-in for the shower. I've got a Moen shower valve.

    The question I have is, when roughing in the water supply lines, how far back from what would be the BACK of the finished wall should those pipes be for the shower valve to stick through the proper distance on the other side? I'll be installing a simple corner shower unit, with standard 1/2 drywall behind it.

    Hope that makes sense.


  2. #2
    Commercial Plumber markts30's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Phoenix, AZ


    It would depend on the shower valve...
    The installation instructions should show you where to set the valve with respect to the finished wall (valve depth after all tiling etc. is done).

  3. #3
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    New England


    They usually come with a plastic cover that is removed prior to final assembly after the wall is finished. It will have markings on it to indicate acceptable positioning. Sometimes this is very critical, sometimes there is a fair amount of slop. Exceeding the limits and it plain won't fit.

    What kind of shower? Drywall might not be the best thing behind it. Greenboard isn't any better. If it is a one-piece, it probably doesn't matter.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  4. #4


    Thanks guys,

    This is a standard one piece corner shower unit. The actual walls come in 3 acrylic pieces (two sides, and a piece that fits in the corner). The actual panels are about a 1/8th inch thick. I'll be applying them to greenboard. At the moment, I've got access to the water supply lines off the basement ceiling and thought I'd begin by roughing them in down the wall where the valve will eventually be installed.

    i figured there was a standard depth that's typically done to, but reading your posts on it really depending on what type of material the shower will be made of makes sense.

    Appreciate the help.


  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member Alan Bechard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Clarksville, TN


    I am struggling with this problem as well.

    I am putting in a one piece unit, that has to slide into the hole, no wiggle room, this is a remodel.

    My finish wall line is on the "middle" of my price pfister stub control. I thought I could remove the NOSE of the control, but the brass casting projects all the way forward so I do not gain any room by taking off the cover per se.

    So if I hard mount my controls, shower head etc in between the studs, I will not be able to slide the shower insert past the valves to install the insert.

    I cannot really install the controls from the backside, as all the screws etc are set up to go in from the front.

    What I am thinking of doing, is too mount all the shower controls and faucets on a piece of plywood, and run the two stubs down through elongated holes into the basement (where the supply water is) Tilt this plywood board back into the closet while I install the one piece shower unit, then tilt the plywood board holding the valves and controls in position between the studs, and screw the plywood into the studs from the back side. Then go down and connect into the water supply after that.

    Makes me wonder if I should have gone PEX....

    Am I missing something obvious?

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