Pressure switch chatter

Should he remove the check valve

  • Yes, remove the check valve

    Votes: 2 100.0%
  • No, try something else

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    2

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SeriousDIYer

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I am having fits. I just installed a new well saver 52 gallon pressure tank, 3/4hp water ace shallow well jet pump, pro plumber 40/60 pressure switch. All new plumbing, new 10/2 wire new 30 amp breaker. My tank is set at 38psi, verified using tire pressure guage. When I turn on the pump, it works fine until it builds pressure to 58psi, then the pressure switch starts to click, click, click until I turn the pump breaker off. What in the world do I need to do. One adjustment screw on my presure switch. Do I need to make an adjustment? The pump came with a 30/50 pressure switch that did the same thing. I though cheap or bad switch, changed the switch and same problem. Any suggestions? I was told that I may need to install a pulse reducer at the bottom of the pressure switch.:confused:
 

Leejosepho

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My guess is that the switch is closer to the pump than it is to the tank, thereby leaving it subject to a too-quick pressure drop and unable to latch open during the overall balancing that takes place between the check valve and pressure tank when the pump stops.
 

Speedbump

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I really don't like to offer advice when all the equipment is bought at a big box store which is a plumbing problem in itself.
But why if you have a 30/50 switch is your pump going up to 58 psi?

bob...
 

SeriousDIYer

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My pressure swith is located at the pump. The line comes from the pump head to the pressure switch which is mounted to the pump motor. The tank is approximately 3.5 feet from the pump. If I mount the pressure switch on the tank t, will this solve my problem?
 

SeriousDIYer

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From pump, through a full bore shut off, through the foundation, From there, through a check valve mounted on the t to the tank. Pretty basic.
 

Speedbump

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It's not basic to have a check valve between the pump and tank. It should be in the well or at least in front of the pump. Having a valve between the two is pretty not basic too.
 

SeriousDIYer

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I also have a check valve between the well head and the pump. The documentation that came with my tank and pump shows a check valve at the t so I put one there. If it can cause a problem, I will remove it. If it will not cause problems, I will leave it.
 

imperial55

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There isn't anything complex here.Why dont you just remove the check valve on the tank and forget the problem ever existed. The reason the switch is chattering is because the pump keeps truning on and off trying to maintain its shut off pressure. When it does this it wont stop chattering until the pressure in the line before the check valve is equal to the pressure in teh tank. Its much easier to just remove the check valve then to start relocating a pressure switch or adding holding tanks.You should never have anything between the pump and tank.

SAM
 

SeriousDIYer

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The yays have it!!!!!!!! I removed the check valve from between the pump and the tank when I got home from work yesterday and low and behold, on at 40 off at 60, no chatter. Thanks for all the help guys, simple and inexpesive fix.
 
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Speedbump

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Lee, you should remove your check valve at the filtration and use valves instead. The check valves there are not the norm either.

bob...
 

Sammyhydro11

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Obviously before he didnt have a check valve at the tank and if he did thats what probably wiped out the last pump. Regardless the guy asked why he was getting a chatter at the switch. People who knew what the problem was told him what the he needed to do,remove the check valve. Jet pumps come with the pressure switch mounted on the side of the pump motor. Unless that pump is located outside in a well pit and the tank is in the house,there is no reason to mount that switch in front of the tank.

The state requires a license to repair(to an extent) and to install drinking water wells,to protect the public on a lot of different levels but not just health.

SAM
 
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Wet_Boots

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It might have been that the check valve was always there, and the original pump was a Goulds with the built-in air chamber :p
 

Speedbump

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Is there a problem you believe it could cause? Along with simplifying filter changes, it also makes it impossible for the down-line pressure tank to ever push back through the filters and toward the well.

If you ever did want the water to run backwards for any reason it won't. Valves are used where you have check valves. This is the norm.

Do you have another tank down line of the filters? If so, Why?

The other thing I don't like is in line filters which I believe you have. It's not my system, it's yours, you can design it any way you want too. I'm just trying to point out how things are normally done.

bob...
 

Leejosepho

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speedbump said:
If you ever did want the water to run backwards for any reason it won't.

Understood.

speedbump said:
Valves are used where you have check valves. This is the norm.

I only have two check valves, and the first is the one that is built in at the top end of my submersible pump.

speedbump said:
Do you have another tank down line of the filters? If so, Why?

One tank was here when we got this place and the other I had picked up for free long ago, and I use them both together to get more draw-down without having to find/buy a larger tank ... and yes, the second one is down-line for the sake of an organized layout and simple plumbing in our small utility area.

speedbump said:
The other thing I don't like is in line filters which I believe you have.

My Kinetico simply *must* have one, or so I have been told, and a glass of our water sure at least *looks* good -- completely clear -- when held to the light!

speedbump said:
It's not my system, it's yours, you can design it any way you want too. I'm just trying to point out how things are normally done.

Thank you.
 
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