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Thread: Installing service to irrigation manifold

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member condensr's Avatar
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    Default Installing service to irrigation manifold

    I installed sprinklers in my front yard this last year, but the final hokoup was cheezed with a Y from the sillcock feeding the valve manifold.

    The manifold is right next to the house, and right next to a frost-free sillcock coming out from the crawl.

    I want to hook it up in a more permenent way this year, so, aside from the best option (dig down to the main and tee in there), I am thinking of teeing the supply in the crawl that the FF sillcock uses, putting a valve there, and piping it through to the valve manifold.

    Great. Every winter and spring I would now have go to my crawlspace and turn off/on the ourside water. Any ideas on how to go about this? Would a solenoid controlled master valve be acceptable?

    Also, the manifold is PVC - what would be the proper pipe to go through the foundation wall to reach it and interface with it?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

  2. #2
    Sprinkler Guy Wet_Boots's Avatar
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    What are you using for backflow prevention?

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member condensr's Avatar
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    Anti-siphon valves installed above ground.

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member condensr's Avatar
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    Anyone have any advice about this?

    Thanks,
    Shane

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default irrigation

    ALL irrigations systems MUST have an antisiphon, antibackflow device between the water supply and the sprinkler manifold. That valve has to be at least 12" above the ground, and ALSO 12" above the highest sprinkler head if the lot slopes uphill. In a freezing area, it is very hard to meet these requirements and also prevent it from freeing and breaking.

  6. #6
    Sprinkler Guy Wet_Boots's Avatar
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    While I believe a lot of Washington sprinkler systems are using buried Double Check Valve Assemblies for backflow protection, I would compliment the choice of antisiphon valves as being a superior form of backflow, being that they are toxic-rated.

    If you want to avoid crawl-space operation of a system shutoff valve, you can buy a through-the-wall shutoff valve, like the ones made by Watts. They use the same principle as a frostproof hydrant, but on a larger scale, and with valve-key operation, to avoid accidental opening during winter.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member condensr's Avatar
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    Excellent, I'll look for one of those through-the-wall shutoffs. Sounds like just the thing.

    HJ, indeed, all of my anti-siphon valves are installed at least 12 inches above the highest head in the zone. (or system, for that matter, as all the valves are at the same height.)

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hj
    ALL irrigations systems MUST have an antisiphon, antibackflow device between the water supply and the sprinkler manifold. That valve has to be at least 12" above the ground, and ALSO 12" above the highest sprinkler head if the lot slopes uphill. In a freezing area, it is very hard to meet these requirements and also prevent it from freeing and breaking.
    good info except that not ALL backflow devices must be installed above the highest sprinkler head....RPZ's protect against back pressure as well as back siphonage whereas a PVB does not protect against back pressure
    Just because you aren't paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you...

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