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Thread: Shallow well

  1. #16
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    I just saw your question about building a rig.

    Have it drilled professionally. It would be a lot easier.

    bob...

  2. #17

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    The 10 slot screens you have, that is the point its self correct. and it is a 3 footer. Is it the 1 1/4 pipe. I did go to your web site looking for some info, I couldnt find and points. What would be shipping to 12866 on the 10 slot. Thanks to all of you who are helping me I am learning a great deal.
    Byron


    The screens I have I will sell for $45.00 each. I believe they usually bring around $75.00 or more these days. Sammy would know better than me. I haven't used one for over 25 years. These belonged to my dad when he retired and he wanted me to dispose of them.

    bob...[/QUOTE]

  3. #18
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    Yes its a three footer, but all I have is a 12 slot. It's two thousands of an inch larger opening than the 10. I also have some 10 slot extensions that can be added to the already 3 footer to make around 6 foot of screen area. Shipping is $6.00.

    The screens have either a point on one end and male threads on the other or male threads on both ends if they are extensions.

    bob...

  4. #19
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    In my opinion,not knowing what the consistency of the material is to screen sizing,i would stick with the 10 slot. If the material is too fine the 12 slot might allow too much fine sand in the screen. Maybe speedbump could order one and ship it to you. List price on one of those is around 275.00. That is a johnson screen. If your going to start pricing these screens, like everything else, you have to take in to consideration who makes them. Johnson is the best screen you can buy. A word to the wise,because of the depth to water, you need to stick with a 2" well on this application.

    SAM

  5. #20

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    [QUOTE=speedbump]Yes its a three footer, but all I have is a 12 slot. It's two thousands of an inch larger opening than the 10. I also have some 10 slot extensions that can be added to the already 3 footer to make around 6 foot of screen area. Shipping is $6.00.

    The screens have either a point on one end and male threads on the other or male threads on both ends if they are extensions.

    bob...[/QUOTE


    Bob, I am intersted in the point. How do I get in touch with you. I went to the website, got the number and called, but you were not in. You can go to QRZ look up my call sign and my e-mail address is there.

    Byron KC2KOH

  6. #21

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    Thank you Sammy, It will all fall in place. I am sure some of the questions are elementary too all of you, but please bare with me this is the only forum where to get great advice, and not feel tormented.

    Byron



    Quote Originally Posted by sammyhydro11
    In my opinion,not knowing what the consistency of the material is to screen sizing,i would stick with the 10 slot. If the material is too fine the 12 slot might allow too much fine sand in the screen. Maybe speedbump could order one and ship it to you. List price on one of those is around 275.00. That is a johnson screen. If your going to start pricing these screens, like everything else, you have to take in to consideration who makes them. Johnson is the best screen you can buy. A word to the wise,because of the depth to water, you need to stick with a 2" well on this application.

    SAM

  7. #22
    Sprinkler Guy Wet_Boots's Avatar
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    Beyond the screening on the well point, there is a lot of sense in having a strainer on the outlet side of the pump. My customary strainer is a Vu-Flow spindown with a 100 mesh stainless screen. That keeps unwanted sand out of the sprinklers. (it is possible to find sand-tolerant sprinkler heads and valves, but the strainer lets you use almost anything, so it pays for itself)

  8. #23
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    Byron,
    no tormenting,we will only help you along the way.

    SAM

  9. #24

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    Ok, So how would one go about to determine the sand from coarse to fine or very fine is there a quick and easy way. the sump pump bucket in the basement can be removed. I could dig down a few feet with post hole diggers and try to gauge the soil. Can I buy or round up some type of gauge or screen to determine if the sand is coarse or fine. There is no sign of rocks in the erea so I am hoping for all sand to pound the point in.

    My father in law called there is a gentleman who lives around the corner from me who he thinks is on a point. I will swing by tomorrow to chat with him. How far away from my house is too far to gauge the water table. I know that is a loaded question. Oh yeah my father in law thinks 15-18 feet for water it is a running bet! I have no idea. So ill check out the lead and get back to you guys. Thank you for your input and most of all your time.

    This is a great forum!
    Byron

  10. #25
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    Its not the material up top that you have to be concerned about,its the material that the screen gets set into and above it. The higher the porosity of the material the higher the velocity of the water.When you start pumping water from a screened well the flow pattern takes shape of a whirl pool or cone(cone of depression) pulling water in from all sides. The center of the cone is where your well is and where the pumping water level is at.Basically in real fine sand you will have to set that screen fairly deep in order for that drawdown to stabilize at a certain flow rate so the shape of the cone is small up top but very deep.With real porous material you get less drawdown in the well becasue its traveling more freely in between the pours of the material so the cone up top is large but not very deep.Thats why its important to know what the consistancy of the material is so you can determine the depth of the screen and also the slot size. Didn't mean to bore you with technical crap but some people like it.

    When drilling with augers the material is coming up from what ever depth your lead auger is at so you can constantly sample the material as it is coming up. Pounding a point in the ground, you are going at it blind and hoping you get into some porous stuff. Stand at the spot where you are going drive your well and if you can see the water in that creek from where you are,that's is where you are going to hit water give or take a couple of feet. You are going to want to set that screen atleast 10 to 15' beyond the water table. When you start to get close to where you think the water is,stop and test to see if you have water in the casing. You can use a string and a weight and bob it up and down in the well. When you hit water you will hear it. You also want to make sure your drive couplings are nice and tight. Between driving lengths i would tighten up the casing in the ground a bit to make sure you are keeping the joints below tight. The vibration from the pounding can loosen the joints.

    SAM

  11. #26

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    Ah Sammy, it is making sense now. Thanks for the description on how the point works in soil and different conditions. Ill get back to you guys about the neighbor that has a possible point.

    Byron





    Quote Originally Posted by sammyhydro11
    Its not the material up top that you have to be concerned about,its the material that the screen gets set into and above it. The higher the porosity of the material the higher the velocity of the water.When you start pumping water from a screened well the flow pattern takes shape of a whirl pool or cone(cone of depression) pulling water in from all sides. The center of the cone is where your well is and where the pumping water level is at.Basically in real fine sand you will have to set that screen fairly deep in order for that drawdown to stabilize at a certain flow rate so the shape of the cone is small up top but very deep.With real porous material you get less drawdown in the well becasue its traveling more freely in between the pours of the material so the cone up top is large but not very deep.Thats why its important to know what the consistancy of the material is so you can determine the depth of the screen and also the slot size. Didn't mean to bore you with technical crap but some people like it.

    SAM

  12. #27

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    Well well well, no pun intented. I went over and talked to the old timer he put in a driven well 20 years ago or longer from what I could gather. He said he was down 14-16 feet at most from ground level when he got water. which is good news, but! he hasnt used it for 10 years and cut it off and filled it in. The man lives about 250 yards diaganol from me and probably in elevation not more than 2 feet higher at his point of residence. I know that doesnt mean ill get water. But it makes me feel better. So I am eager to get started and hope to get water at a much closer level to the surface.

    Let me know what you guys think!
    Byron

  13. #28
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    Things are looking up Byron. The screen will go out today, so look for it in a few days. Then keep us posted.

    bob...

  14. #29

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    Will do. I am gonna get the pipe and couplers today, and start laying out the supplies and gear up. Oh yeah do some prep work and some some shoulder exercises.

  15. #30
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    Things are looking up Byron. The screen will go out today, so look for it in a few days. Then keep us posted.

    bob...

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