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Thread: Adding an ice maker run

  1. #1

    Default Adding an ice maker run

    I am remodeling my kitchen and have the walls opened up. Had to remove tile from countertop to cabs so I need to replace the rock. I'd like to take the ice maker line, currently braided, and make it a permanent run with a valve box at the fridge.

    I don't want to open the ceiling if I don't have to, though that would probably be the cleanest installation. I'd rather use 1/2" rigid running about 12" off the slab. This would mean notching maybe 12' of wall studs and turning a corner. It looks like 3 fittings -- 1 at the sink supply line where I get to launch an existing saddle valve into orbit, a 90 at the corner, and the new shutoff at the fridge location.

    I suppose I could run 1/2" soft copper, but I've heard one shouldn't be sweating fittings, etc. with soft.

    So my question: Is there a better way than notching all those studs? The original runs are all notched in.

    Thanks!!

  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Default

    Main point I'd make is do not use a saddle valve. They are a disaster waiting to happen. Tie into the supply line with a tee, ball valve, and necessary adapters to reduce and adapt to soft copper. Then use compression fittings to connect the soft copper to the ice maker. If you wish, you can run ridge copper from the valve to get close to the ice maker then do the adapting. You do not need a valve at the ice maker, if you need to cut that water line off, it's easy enough at junction with the supply line. You are correct about not soldering soft copper. You can get all of the fittings, valves, adapter, etc. at any big box store or plumbing supply. Again, do not use a saddle valve.

    Last edited by Terry; 05-18-2010 at 10:40 AM.

  3. #3
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You might be able to run it up high at the back of the cabinets. A shutoff where you tap in should be fine. The diagram that came with my frig showed about a 5' diameter loop behind the frig to allow you to pull it out without the likelyhood of kinking. Most only require 1/4".
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks for the responses.

    As this is going to be behind closed sheetrock, I'm very hesitant to use compression fittings. Also, the shutoff at the fridge is a convenience thing. I absolutely HATE crawling under the sink to shut off the water to the ice maker.

    I really am looking forward to dumping the saddle value that a previous owner installed -- badly, I might add.

    Guess I'm going the notch and rigid route.

  5. #5
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    That's fine, but you still need to leave a loop as JDNashua pointed out so the ice maker can be pulled out. That means soft copper with compression fittings for that part of the run at least. I don't think many pro plumbers share your concern about compression fittings, but if you'll feel better with ridged, then go that way.

  6. #6
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The whole thing with the soft copper is that you shouldn't need fittings inside the wall - one at the shutoff or connection to the pipe, and another one at the icemaker. I'd want one where you start the run. Adding another at the icemaker is your choice. Luckily, my frig's filter can be changed without turning the water off - just unscrew it, then screw in a new one.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member SteveW's Avatar
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    I agree with the posts above.

    Just go with 1/4 " flexible copper.

    You should be able to do a continuous run with no compression fittings buried in the wall.

  8. #8
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default copper

    I do not know who told you it is bad to solder soft copper, but if it were true thousands, actually millions, of slab homes have a problem because they almost ALL have soft copper under the floor soldered to hard/rigid copper in the walls.

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