Washing Machine Hose - can't get it to stop leaking

Hi Guys -

I've looked at this 10 zillion times.
I've taken this thing apart on my new washer hose and held the hose flat to the the valve. It's not smaller than the damm valve so I would assume it's sitting flat and snug, when it is tighted up.

Regardless of how tight and snug I turn this damm thing, it is leaking from whjere the flare part of it meets the other end of the washer.

Any ideas or suggestions here .
I would replace it with a regular hose, but the other end of the washer hose has a weird proprietary connection to the machine itself.

Chef Wong,

How nice you are a chef. lol. I was trying to make sushi the other nite, I bought, salmon, and tuna, and still it did not taste the same, any tidbits of hints for those who are not Martha Stewart in a Plumber site? lol.

Someone answer him about the plumbing, lol. Thank you., lol.

Some of the washers they supply with those things are super hard - it is tough to make a good connection. Have you simply tried a different washer? With that type of hose, make sure to turn the supplies off after you are done doing wash. It's hard to tell, but the preferred hose is a reinforced ss braid - they last longer.

Check to see if the hose is solidly seated on the valve. After you tighten it, the hose should be tight so you can't turn it inside the hose nut. If it is loose, then it may be that the end of the valve doesn't have enough threads to allow it to seat completely.

Check the valve. It should have a flat end. If the valve is a pipe valve with just a nipple in it, then a hose adapter with a flat end should be installed.

If the hose nut doesn't go up tightly, then it might work if you add a second rubber washer to make up the space.

Is it possible that the hose is a foreign thread that might not fit US fittings?

If you can't solve it, perhaps you could post a picture of the mating valve fitting.

Sorry Cookie, I'm a engineer, but the hobby is cooking.


The is enough threading for the nut to seat. Plenty of threading left.
It was fine with the previous *regular* 3/4" hose I had there. The valves are regular 1/2 valves with a 1/2 to 3/4" brass adapter on it. I just checked and it is flat on the end.

I litterrally have one plier holding the adapter and another turning the DAMM nut. I am using so MUCH FORCE to tighten it that even though my pliers teeth are sharp, it is cutting into the damm nut itself. That's too much force IMO.

Regardless, with the nut now tight to the valve body, as tight as I am doing it before I feel I am using too much force, more threads enough for the nut to bottom out, the damm hose is still not snug, as I can move the hose with ease inside the nut.....

I made a midnight run to the Orange Store, and I did not see any alternative washers.


I thought this would be a easy disconnect /reconnect of old washer/new washer but this one is throwing me off.

Am I missing some really OBVIOUS DETAIL here ?
I'll get a pic of the valve, but it's a regular 1/2 - 3/4" brass adapter.

That should be just a standard hose washer...it's nothing special. Some of them are so hard, you can't dent them with a fingernail. If yours are like that, get some new ones that are a little softer. With the nylon or teflon end on that hose and a hard washer, it's like two teflon surfaces - they'll slide on one another. The harder the washer, the more perfect the surface has to be to make that compression seal. It is also possible that it might have been cross-threaded which would never let it seal. I'm guessing a really hard washer. Now, I'm assuming this is a typical hose bib or a special washing machine hose faucet. You talk about adapters...that makes me wonder. A picture would help us understand.

I'm going to hit the supply store tomorrow to get a equivalent sized washer.

The adapter is because the shutoff are 1/2". So I've got a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter. Been using that just fine with the previous washer and regular washer hose.

I just took a quick pic of the adapter...nothing special.

back to beginning

in your first post you said the other end was a weird proprietary connection.

1. ) Which brand / name / model ? The machine.
2. ) Did these new hoses come with a new washing machine?
3. ) Are there two hoses?
4. ) Does only one hose leak?

david

hose

1. Are you sure that the fitting is a hose thread and not a 3/4" pipe thread?
2. That valve's thread is not usually a standard pipe thread, but rather a slip joint connection for use with a nut and washer.

chefwong said:

Regardless, with the nut now tight to the valve body, as tight as I am doing it before I feel I am using too much force, more threads enough for the nut to bottom out, the damm hose is still not snug, as I can move the hose with ease inside the nut.....

Click to expand...

As long as you can move the hose inside the nut, it will never seal. I suspect that the hose nut and the valve thread don't match.

You might be able to get it to seal if you add a second washer (add thickness) to make up for the fact that the nut doesn't screw on tight.

hj nailed this one exactly. You have a pipe thread adapter connected to a hose thread. Teflon tape will never seal a hose thread, it just gets in the way. You can get proper adapter, but it would make the most sense to just replace the valve with a washing machine bibb.

Thanks Guys. I was leaning on the valve replacement as well.
I guess it's gotta wait for the weekend warrior fix, as there is no shut offs to this and I need to shut the complete water supply ;-) Adding extra shuts off has been on my *to do list* for years not.

Just wanted to say THANKS guys.
I could have sworn it was HT, but indeed, it was 3/4" pipe thread adapter than was on the valve.

Picked up 2 adapters so the wifey could use the washer in the interim....our previous washer broke and we have been doing it old school in the sink for 1.5 weeks now ;-)

HJ. I’m experiencing the same issue but I have the hot all set and cannot get cold to attach without spray (not leaking but spraying) when it seems to be lined up and tight. Could this lip at the entrance of the cold connection be the issue?