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Thread: Other water usage during shower !

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member Bob1000's Avatar
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    Default Other water usage during shower !

    My water system is as follows:-
    Water 0.75HP pump connected to the mains
    Pressure tank
    pressure switch set to 40/70 psi

    I set it that way to keep the pump continously running during the shower with the tap FULLY OPEN to avoid that annoying sudden change of hot and cold water mixture when the pump turn on and off and cause pressure variation , and I am very happy with that setting for showering because the pressure would built up untill 60psi and stay constant during shower with the tap full open
    The problem now is , when anybody uses water in the kitchen then the water mixture in the shower changes and I get hot and cold shocks again
    Any ideas how to solve this problem?

    I thought of fixing a pressure regulator in the home entrance and set it to 50psi , would that help?
    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    More than likely not. The problem is the piping size. When someone opens a cold water faucet, the added friction loss causes the cold water to slow down going to your shower. Hence the scalding you feel. The opposite is true too, you can be frozen to death in the shower if someone opens the hot water somewhere in the house.

    bob...

  3. #3
    Rancher
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    Speedbump, I'm proud of you, not even a mention of the CSV...

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob1000
    The problem now is , when anybody uses water in the kitchen then the water mixture in the shower changes and I get hot and cold shocks again Any ideas how to solve this problem?
    The solution is showering etiquette, no sink use during showers, no laundry, no flushing of the toilet. The pressure regulator may help some.

    Rancher

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    If I thought it would help his problem I would have, but I don't see how it can. I once built a house (never again) but I put in 1" mainline (copper). No problems like Bob1000 mentioned. I don't understand why 3/4" has been the code for so long. It's inadequate in my opinion. I also had a loop from the furthest faucet back to the water heater wrapped in insulation. It went back with 1/2" into the drain at the bottom of ther heater. The drop in temperature going that distance made it circulate and kept instant hot water at all faucets. Then I mixed hot with the cold into the toilets to keep them from sweating. This should be code everywhere!

    bob...

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    In the Trades Bob NH's Avatar
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    If you put a restrictor in the kitchen faucet you will reduce the problem.

    A thermostatically modulated shower control valve will also help. Most new shower valves are thermostatically controlled.

    New shower systems are limited to 2.5 GPM, unless you take out the restrictor. The lower flow might upset your 60 psi pump control system.

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member Bob1000's Avatar
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    Thermostatic mixers are not an option to me because of its difficult to use knobs by elder family members in the house , we have a hand mixer easy to use
    By the way , the existing piping is 1/2" not even 3/4" and galvanized steel so I think there must be a lot of friction there taking into mind the opinions said ere
    Any other ideas ???

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member Bob1000's Avatar
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    Default hi

    Quote Originally Posted by speedbump
    If I thought it would help his problem I would have, but I don't see how it can. I once built a house (never again) but I put in 1" mainline (copper). No problems like Bob1000 mentioned. I don't understand why 3/4" has been the code for so long. It's inadequate in my opinion. I also had a loop from the furthest faucet back to the water heater wrapped in insulation. It went back with 1/2" into the drain at the bottom of ther heater. The drop in temperature going that distance made it circulate and kept instant hot water at all faucets. Then I mixed hot with the cold into the toilets to keep them from sweating. This should be code everywhere!

    bob...
    Hi Speedpump
    Thank you for your reply but may I ask what is your water system configuration?

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    Now, it's 3/4" copper in my present house and we get the water temp problems like you mentioned. With the house up north years ago with the 1" plumbing that problem never occured.

    bob...

  9. #9
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    I'd switch the shower valve to a pressure balanced version. Get one with a large loop handle trim - easy to turn. You can get similar trim on a thermostatically controlled valve as well. Instead of knobs, you can get one with a lever for the temperature control and another one for the volume. Lots of options here. Depending on the age, that galvanized piping may have the internal diameter of a pencil...Maybe it is time to think about updating that.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  10. #10
    DIY Senior Member Bob1000's Avatar
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    I think I must replace hose pipes one day in the future but any temporary solution now for the ime being apart from a new shower valve?

  11. #11
    DIY Senior Member Bob1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedbump
    Now, it's 3/4" copper in my present house and we get the water temp problems like you mentioned. With the house up north years ago with the 1" plumbing that problem never occured.

    bob...
    But what about the rest of the system , the pump and the ank and the switches? what do you have there ? That must play a role in your problem as well

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