pressure tank

[dennisbarth]

about twice aweek i have to let pressure out of my pressure tank because i get to much pressure and it scares my mother in law.i don't know anything about pressure tanks and could use some help.what can i do to fix this problem?

[Deb]

Your post does not really tell us much.....Where exactly do you let air out? What do you mean by the pressure gets too high? What is the reading on the pressure gauge? What is the on/off pressures on the switch?
It is generally a bad idea to start arbitrarily adjusting the air in a pressure tank. Give us more info and maybe we can offer some constructive advise.
Deb
The Pipewench

[dennisbarth]

i bleed they air out of the valve by the pressure gauge and take it (try) to take it down to 40psi but it kicks back in and builds pressure.does this help?

[Gary Slusser]

It sounds as if the pump is running after it reaches the switch cut-out (off) setting. That is usually caused by a blocked switch nipple or the fittings and tubing to the switch on the side of a jet pump. The switch lags because it can't sense the real time pressure change. Usually that also causes the switch to come on late too.

Adjusting the air does not change the pressure the pump builds, but it will cause short cycling of the pump. That kills pump motors. You need to look up the correct way to readjust the correct air pressure for the switch settings which is 1-2 psi less than the cut-in setting; 30/50 gets 29-28 psi air pressure with no water in the tank. What you've done is not good for the tank bladder either.

Gary
Quality Water Associates

[jadnashua]

Note that the pressure tank does NOT pressurize the system, it just stores that pressure built up by the pump. Changing the pressure in the pressure tank just messes up the overall system performance. The way this works is that the tank has two sides, separated by a rubber bladder. You put air pressure on the dry side to the point just below the turn-on point of the pump control. When the pump comes on, it pumps water out the faucet or whatever you have open and continues until it builds up pressure determined by the high point or turn off point of the pressure switch. Since water doesn't compress, the bladder in the expansion tank does, compressing the air until it reaches the upper or turn off point of the control. Then the pump turns off. Now, when you open a faucet, the system is pressurized without having to have the pump turn on (at least until the bladder pushes out that stored water under pressure and reaches the turn-on point of the pump control. Thus, because you have some stored water in the tank, the pump doesn't have to turn on each time you open a faucet; only when you use up enough to drop the pressure down to the turn-on point. This minimizes the amount the pump has to turn on (cycles kill pumps), and provides instant pressure of at least some water in the house.

[dennisbarth]

i noticed the incoming water valve was turned on max, i turned it down 1/2 pressure is fine

[PEW]

Dennis,

You may want to share some more details. It does not appear that you have given enough information for any of us to understand your situation. Turning the valve to 1/2 does not sound like you fixed the problem.

[jadnashua]

You are creating more problems - basically you are creating work for your pump. It is going to run longer now to provide the same results and wear out sooner. Retricting the flow does not change the ultimate static pressure. My unprofessional opinion. If the pressure goes too high, it is one of several reasons, none of which are controlled by restricting the input to your system. If the pressure climbs higher than it should while the pump is running, then either it is set wrong (your pressure switch is set too high), or the pressure switch is not working properly. If the pressure goes high after the pump turns off, then it is probably the cause of the water heater causing expansion. In that case, if you didn't have a storage tank, you would need to install an expansion tank. This is not needed on a pump system, as the storage tank performs that function. BUT, if you don't have enough pressure in the storage tank, then it can basically fill up with water, leaving no room for expansion, and the hot water heater can cause the pressure to rise as it heats water after being drained and filled with cold. Depending on the amount of water heated, and the amout, it could raise the pressure probably 50 pounds or more. You really need someone to look at the system, unless you are willing to listen and ask questions, rather than making changes without understanding, you will be causing more problems than you are fixing.

[dennisbarth]

like i said i know nothing about plumbing except how to put in a toilet.come to think about a new hot water tank was put in in jan. 2004.we went from a 80 gal. to a 40 gal. would that have something to do with the pressure problem?

[Gary Slusser]

i noticed the incoming water valve was turned on max, i turned it down 1/2 pressure is fine

You have the system totally imbalanced now. You need to set the air precharge pressure correctly and as part of that, check the switch, its fitting and any 1/4" tube and its fittings for blockage. If you don't do these things, expect the tank bladder to break and the pump to start coming on when so little as a glass of water is drawn. That kills a pump motor and adds greatly to the electric bill before the death.

IOWs, do it right or you aren't doing any good and will be responsible for failure of the system. That's okay though if you thne pay for making things right with new equipment.

Gary
Quality Water Associates