State domestic electric water heater

[mariner]

Hi,

I have a couple of questions that you plumber types might be able to answer for me.

I have to replace the TP valve on my water heater (have it already) and while I have the heater empty I thought I could replace the dip tube, anode rod and instal a better drain valve.

I assume the anode rod would be in the top of the heater - where abouts would it be, my guess would be midway between the hot and cold connections, in the centre of the top. Are these anode rods generic/universal or do I need a special part number for the manufacturer (I don't have any literature for the tank, though the model number is CD5 52 20Rs6). I was hoping I could buy one from the local plumbing wholesaler.


Thanks in advance for any information you could send this way.

mariner

[kordts]

I don't drain the heaters for that, I can change that stuff on the fly. Since you aren't charging by the hour, go for it. To find the anode, lool for a bulge in the sheet metal. You will have to slice and dice, I wouldn't worry about it, unless a bunch of funky, granular, greenish blue stuff is on the bottom of the heater.

[Mikey]

I've replaced a couple of anode rods, and they were similar. You should see a 1 1/16" hex on the top of the heater. That's the anode rod. All the books say just use a breaker bar and out she'll come. I had to use an air-driven impact wrench both times. Also, on a Whirlpool unit, they had cleverly offset the top cover so that 1/2 of the anode rod hex was covered up, requiring the slicing and dicing mentioned by Kordts. Other complications that might arise: the plumber might have installed the inlet or outlet piping so that you can't extract the rod, or the ceiling might be installed too close to the top of the WH. I now have a 1 1/2" cleanout in the ceiling above my 80-gal tank to solve the latter problem. (That should confuse the next owner.) I buy mine on-line; Google {"Anode rod" smell} and you'll find a couple of good sites at the top of the list. It isn't worth the $6 shipping cost for me to drag my butt to a hostile supplier locally.

[Racer814]

I would definitely replace the anode rod if you can get to it...I think its accessible on state....some manufacturers cover them over....some ( I think Bradford White-I may be wrong) have a combination hot outlet/anode rod....those are a nightmare to get out sometimes...as far as getting the old one out on a state, that shouldnt be a problem...probably won't be much left...and you can cut the new one down a little if you need to to get it in....you can even bend it a little to get it in and bend it back before you screw it in...