drywalling a ceiling

**fast pasquale** · 03-07-2007, 11:15 AM

Well I just tore down the ceiling which was all lath and plaster. There is a crown molding still in place. The joists are 3/4 of an inch above the crown. What is my best method to put this celing up. Should I use 1/2inch furring strips on the joists then use 1/4 drywall? Thanks so much in advance. Only put one ceiling up before..

**Gary Swart** · 03-07-2007, 11:32 AM

I'd never use 1/4" drywall (do they even make that size?) I'm thinking it would have a tendency to sag. Can you remove the crown molding and put it back after hanging the drywall? If not, then I'd use 1/4" furring and 1/2" rock. By all means, rent a sheet rock jack to support the sheets when you hang them.

**jadnashua** · 03-07-2007, 01:17 PM

You don't really want 1/4" stuff on the ceiling (and, yes, it is available, but you probably won't find it at HD). For fire purposes and noise suppression, the 1/4" stuff is too thin. I'd also be worried about things like insulation causing it to bow - even its own weight could do it. In fact, some codes want 5/8" fire rated stuff in some situations. BTW, they also make the 1/4" stuff so it is somewhat bendable for curves (wet it first). In those situations, you normally put up two layers.

**leejosepho** · 03-07-2007, 02:00 PM

Originally Posted by fast pasquale

The joists are 3/4 of an inch above the crown ...

The 1/4" strips and 1/2" board are definitely one way to go here if that 3/4" gap is actually *always* at least that dimension and fairly consistent -- try sticking a 4' piece of 1x2 (3/4" thick) in that gap all the way around the room to see what happens -- but if it is not, you might do better by using 5/8" rock and caulking the remaining gap ... and no, that moulding is not there to hold up the ceiling.

**jrseaberg** · 03-07-2007, 08:24 PM

Often people with lathe and plaster walls/ceilings mis-identify the molding aournd the perimeter of the ceiling as "crown molding". Instead, it may be what I know as "hanging molding". The molding actually sits about 1/4" below the ceiling level, and it is used to hang items on the wall using hooks and picture hanging wire. By this, you don't have to put a nail or some other hole in the plaster wall, which doesn't tolerate holes or banging with a hammer very well.

I have seen where people have used caulk to close that gap, not knowing/understanding the concept.

Without seeing your specific molding, I would think that if you had the traditional crown molding, it would have been difficult, if not impossible, to get the ceiling down without removing/damaging the molding.

Just my un-asked-for opinion

Jim

p.s. Isn't tearing lathe and plaster out a fun job??? Something to consider if you have more ceilings to do, you might be able to apply 1/2 drywall directly to the old plaster/lathe, or use furring strips to level it out if you have to; it is a LOT less messy, but still accomplishes a "new ceiling". I like to use screws; less banging means less breaking of the plaster keys.

**fast pasquale** · 03-08-2007, 10:21 AM

Thanks guys... Im leaning toward using 5/8 rock and leaving the crown up.. then caulking.. I will be texturing.. so this should help the gap a bit also..

**leejosepho** · 03-08-2007, 02:53 PM

That gap might seem like a big deal at the moment, but it will likely be nearly unnoticable even before you caulk and texture.

**fast pasquale** · 03-08-2007, 04:29 PM

thanks Lee....I put up 1 board to test the gap (5/8)... and it looks like it should work great.. the gap will be minimal at the most.. Much appreciated.

**Refinisher** · 03-08-2007, 06:45 PM

I have been installing drywall for better than 20 years, where do you buy 1/4" drywall??? They make 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8". Mobile Homes wall board is a gypsum product but even it is not 1/4".

I would use moisture barrier of 4 mil plastic on joists then mosture resistant plywood in 1/4" first and then followed by 1/2" drywall. If this is a bathroom I would use 1/2" green board. Due to the fact that the joists are going to be uneven you will need to get up in the attic and apply shims between the joists and the plywood.

About a year ago I did a job not much different that this one you have described and it came out great and still has had no problems.

**fast pasquale** · 03-08-2007, 11:08 PM

really??... it's a 80 year old house, triplex. 4bdrm 1st, 4bdrm 2nd, 3rd single. I am referring to the living room, on the 2nd fl unit. The roof is roughly 5 feet, directly above where the ceiling would be when installed. This is why I am replacing it b/c of nail holes that were never filled in the roof. Two sides are connected to ouside wall. The other 2 interior walls. I didn't realize I would need to use plastic and/or ply... ugh.... more stuff to carry

**oldhouse** · 03-09-2007, 08:37 AM

I have about 10 or 12 sheets of it here right now. It's a special order, and can't get it through the big box places. It's a little over twice what regular 1/2" costs, but sometimes, it can be very helpful.
oldhouse